James Bond’s Black Lounge Wedding Attire in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service



For the wedding of James and Tracy Bond in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, James Bond wears a form of semi-formal day wear called “black lounge,” known to the Americans as a stroller and to the Germans as a Stresemann. It is an updated version of morning dress with a lounge coat replacing the morning coat (known in America as a cutaway coat). For James Bond’s wedding in the very warm setting of Portugal, black lounge is more suitable than morning dress.

For business in the United Kingdom, black lounge was was traditionally worn alongside the lounge suit, having roughly the same formality, but this practice fell out of favour by the 1970s. As time went on, black lounge became an intermediate formality between a dark lounge suit and a morning suit (a less formal style of morning dress where all three pieces match in grey).

Dimi Major of Fulham, London tailored George Lazenby’s lounge coat, waistcoat and trousers. Bond’s lounge coat is black but sometimes appears to be blue on film. The coat has peak lapels and two buttons on the front, and it is tailored with straight shoulders with natural sleeve heads, a full, clean chest and a suppressed waist. Traditionally the black lounge coat worn in this manner has only one button, to mimic the 20th century morning coat’s single button, but two or three buttons are also correct styles. Notched lapels are also acceptable, but peaked lapels are more appropriate for a wedding. The pockets are jetted on a slight slant, the cuffs have three buttons, and there are double vents at the back.

The waistcoat is dove grey lightweight tropical wool and has six buttons. The narrow straight-leg trousers match the waistcoat in dove grey tropical wool, and the style most likely matches the other trousers in the film with a darted front and Daks-style button-tab side adjusters. Traditionally trousers worn with the black lounge outfit are the same as with morning dress: striped or checked, only in black, white and grey. Though Bond breaks with tradition, he does not insult it.

Bond’s soft white cotton poplin shirt from regular James Bond shirtmaker Frank Foster has a tunic collar with a detachable spread collar, a front placket stitched 1 cm from the edge and double cuffs. The tie is an ice-blue satin, tied in a Windsor knot. The tie’s light, cheerful colour makes it perfect for the wedding party.

Bond wears black plain-toe slip-on shoes with elastic side gussets on chisel-toe last, though the traditional shoe would be a cap-toe oxford or balmoral, shoe or boot. Whilst the traditional hat for such an outfit would be a black Homburg or bowler, Bond brings along a less formal black trilby. And since it is his wedding, Bond wears a white carnation in his lapel buttonhole, not pinned to his lapel. A small cord sewn to the back of the lapel holds the flower in place.


  1. On a side note, I always thought it was uncanny how similar George Lazenby and Bruce Campbell look. Ive never heard anyone else ever mention it, so as far as Im aware, Im the only who has ever noticed!

  2. This sort of getup may be just the thing for my wedding. Though I'm also considering the morning coat or three piece suit, of course.

  3. For a wedding, I'd recommend traditional morning dress or a black lounge as seen here. If you go with black lounge, it should be a black lounge coat with a 1-button front and peak lapels (like a dinner jacket without the silk trimmings). Waistcoat should be a light colour, like light grey, buff or powder blue, and trousers in a houndstooth check or with "cashmere stripes," the most traditional stripe pattern to wear with morning wear. Shirt should be exactly as seen here: white poplin with a spread collar and double cuffs. The tie should be a check in black, white and/or grey, with a shepard's check in black and white being most traditional.

  4. The cut of the wedding attire in Licence to Kill isn't the problem, and there's nothing dreadful about it. The biggest problem is the morning coat is the wrong colour; it should be dark grey or black. Light grey is only appropriate as part of a morning suit, which this is not. Every part of Bond's outfit in Licence to Kill is of similar value and has no contrast. The wing collar is inappropriate, and it's a fake wing collar at that. And the dress cravat is fake too.

  5. Hi Matt’ I’m getting married this year and like the stroller look like 007. From the blue ray the jacket he wears looks black and his tie looks silver, could it be the case that these are the colours – where did you find out that the jacket was midnight blue and tie light blue?

    • The jacket appears to be midnight and the tie light blue in the Blu-ray as well as the old DVD, and also in a number of photos I’ve seen in print. The two images with this article are from the Blu-ray, and those show a midnight blue jacket and a silvery-blue tie. Midnight blue is a very dark blue and almost black, and the tie is a silvery blue.

  6. I have often read on this blog that Lazenby is a terrible actor, but his tailor is so skillful that everyone can still enjoy OHMSS… Funny. Personnaly, I think Lazenby is just as great as Connery, in a different way of course, and he managed successfully to create another style to distinguish himself from Connery. A style on the screen, another style for the character as well as another style of clothing. Well, I can’t say his tailor is bad… His style is fresh, new, impeccably cut, and yet very British. Another time, as great as Connery’s but very different.
    However… I am a little shocked by the colour of his wedding trousers here -especially when we see it at the end, when he stopped the car. Aren’t they far too light for black lounge ? They look like it’s the same colour as his waistcoat. It’s not as horrible as Dalton’s horrible outfit and colour problem, but I am worried… Wouldn’t Bond be supposed to wear trousers of the colour of Draco’s, or of Q’s, who wear black lounge as well ? Light grey isn’t dark grey, or even medium grey. Even if he wore houndstooth or fine glen plaid trousers, there would be some black in the pattern, so the trousers would look darker… I wonder what is your opinion about it, Matt !

    • I agree that they are too light, but for a summery wedding they don’t look bad. Black-and-white glen plaid trousers would have been better. Black lounge doesn’t have any hard-and-fast rules. Draco and Q are wearing the traditional striped trousers, whilst M is wearing similar trousers to Bond. Lee and Llewelyn were likely wearing clothes from their own wardrobes. I would guess that Llewelyn was wearing the jacket and waistcoat from his own navy worsted flannel suit, and the wardrobe department may have provided the trousers if they weren’t his own. Soon I’ll be writing about one of the other black lounge outfits from the wedding, as well as another morning dress example from the A View to a Kill horserace.

      • Great ! I guess you mean Draco and Zorin’s more formal outfits…
        After seeing the scene again, it was Lee’s outfit that seemed the most out of place to me. Bond, Q, Draco and even all his hitmen wear all black lounge and thus a waistcoat. But M, Bond’s superior, who is supposed to know the rules, wear the least formal outfit. It looks like a resort, sport outfit, a little like a blazer ensemble but the dark navy jacket looks like a suit jacket. And he dons a pair of light grey flannel trousers (suitable with a blazer jacket but not really appropriate for a wedding, I think) and a casual -by the colour- pale yellow shirt while everybody wear white shirts. Very strange and not really correct as an attitude towards the bride and the groom. It’s rather strange to see M and Q together as Q is much more appropriately dressed than his boss here. It’s a pity because I love Lee’s way of dressing as M, he could have worn a stroller with a silver bowtie with white pin dots… Perhaps it was too hot for him to wear a waistcoat… Finally this puzzles me more than Lazenby’s trousers ! :)

  7. Dear Matt – Thanks for all the help via this website, Facebook and messenger.

    I truly appreciate it along your professional etiquette and manners in the way you deal with people seeking help and advice, us chaps who were once clueless on how to dress well.

    Again Thank You very much old boy!!!


  8. Matt, I have a question for you.
    In the case of the double breasted stroller, should a waistcoat still be worn?
    If so, what type of waistcoat to wear with the DB stroller (Single or double breasted) and should it be visible when the double breasted stroller is buttoned?

    • You can wear a waistcoat with a double-breasted stroller, and it should be single-breasted in the same type of style as with a single-breasted jacket. It should show above the front of the jacket.

  9. If the wedding is in a church then I think the morning coat should be worn. However since the wedding is outside and in Portugal do you think bond went with the correct choice in this event in terms of either wearing black lounge or morning dress?

      • Do you think Bond would still wear morning dress to *his* wedding in 2019, or would he wear a lounge suit? What kind of lounge suit is appropriate? Presumably you want something neither business like nor too sporty.

      • I don’t think Bond would wear black lounge to his wedding (it was a little of its time), but I think Bond may wear morning dress to his wedding. A fancy three-piece suit, perhaps in grey herringbone, would probably be most likely for Bond.

  10. Matt, talking about black lounge. Since the lounge jacket is basically replacing the morning coat, I presume it can be either black or dark charcoal ? So could a dark charcoal double breasted jacket work as a stroller with the morning dress trousers, white shirt, light colored waistcoat etc. ?

    • Yes, a charcoal jacket also works. I’m not sure if that was ever proper in the UK, but it is in the US. I believe my father got married in a (hired) charcoal stroller.

      • Are there any rules on the cloth used for a stroller jacket? I.e. is it a plain worsted cloth? A fine herringbone as is required for morning coats? Or something else?

      • The most traditional cloth would be wool barathea or herringbone like in a morning coat. Flannel or cashmere may also be acceptable. I’d go with other choices before a plain worsted cloth. A stroller should be made of something special but not casual.


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