Over his black herringbone peaked lapel three-piece suit, James Bond wears a black double-breasted bridge coat that helps him fit in with the gangsters at Sciarra’s funeral in Spectre. The coat from Tom Ford is made of lighter topcoat-weight brushed wool. It is in a button four, show four configuration and has an ulster collar with a buttonhole on each rever, slash pockets for hand-warming, a button-on half belt in the back, a rear vent and three cuff buttons. The coat is cut with straight shoulders and has set-in sleeves.
The bridge coat has military origins and is like a cross between a pea coat and a greatcoat. It is like a pea coat in most of its design but has the full below-the-knee-length of the greatcoat. Bridge coats, like pea coats, have a straight cut, but the bridge coat’s belt in the rear gives it some waist suppression. The belt on Bond’s coat takes in the waist significantly, but the cut of coat does not not have much waist suppression. Though bridge coats for the military have gilt buttons, Bond’s bridge coat is adapted for civilian use with black horn buttons. For a less gangster-esque look than a black bridge coat, navy is a great colour for a bridge coat.
Though the bridge coat and great coat are very similar, there are a few notable differences. Bridge coats have the buttons on the front in a rectangular formation, and those buttons are separate from the buttons under the collar. Greatcoats have the buttons in a keystone formation, and the buttons are spaced evenly up to the collar. Bridge coats, like pea coats, typically have slash pockets whilst greatcoats have straight or hacking flap pockets. Both often have a belt in the back. Daniel Craig’s double-breasted black overcoat in Quantum of Solace, by contrast to the coat in Spectre, is a greatcoat.
Daniel Craig’s Bond usually only fastens one button on his outer coats, and on this coat he only fastens the second button from the top. It is an odd way to fasten a coat for warmth, and it’s an odd fashion for someone who was once in the military.
With the bridge coat at the funeral, Bond wears the Tom Ford “Snowdon” sunglasses in the colour “Havana”, which is a mottled dark brown. The lenses look brown, but they are actually greyn. These sunglasses will be auctioned at the Spectre auction at Christie’s in London on the 18th of February and are expected to fetch £4,000 to £6,000.
Bond also wears black leather driving gloves with his bridge coat and black suit. The gloves are the appropriately named “Fleming” model from Dents. The glove has perforations on the outsides and insides of the fingers, gathers on the underside of the glove’s opening and a band that fastens with a popper on the topside of the glove’s opening. Bond later wears these gloves when he visits Lucia, but he does not wear them for their intended purpose—driving—during the car chase with Hinx.