Original article published 18 September 2011
I am in the process of rewriting and republishing old articles about James Bond’s outfits that are in need of a refresh and expansion. All former comments are preserved below.
Goldfinger established many James Bond series tropes, and it introduced many of Bond’s quintessential outfits. When spying on Auric Enterprises, for first time Bond dresses in all black for sneaking around at night, and it became a trademark look for the character with many variations. Black is not the best concealment for night, but because black clothes reflect little light they’re a popular choice for hiding in the dark. Had Bond worn a truly effective camouflage, he wouldn’t show up well for the audience.
For this mission, Bond does not dress like a solider. He wears a smart casual outfit that doubles as a tactical uniform. Bond’s outfit is comprised of a black polo under a black V-neck jumper with black flannel trousers and black shoes. At first glance, it looks like Bond is wearing a long-sleeve polo rather than a V-neck over a polo. A single layer alone would look neater, but the layers are better for warmth outdoors. The outfit is intended to keep Bond comfortable outdoors without a jacket during a cool late spring or summer night, but it wouldn’t be warm enough the rest of the year in Switzerland. The outfit is just as appropriate for a casual evening out as it is for being sneaky, and if Bond weren’t captured he could have gone out for a drink after snooping around.
The polo has a three-button placket and a fashioned polo collar. Bond wears the collar outside of the jumper’s V-neck. The polo has short sleeves to prevent bulk at the wrist when worn over the jumper. It could be made of either wool or cotton, but since the texture and colour are slightly different than that of the jumper, it is more likely to be cotton. It is detailed with grey pearlescent buttons.
The jumper is made of fine-gauge wool and has a close fit, but not a tight fit. The V-neck is deep enough to show the polo’s three buttons without more space below the placket. It has a ribbed hem and ribbed cuffs. The cuffs are long and designed to be folded back over themselves, which is how Connery wears them. The polo and jumper are likely both from John Smedley, an English heritage brand founded in 1784. Daniel Craig wears a very similar John Smedley V-neck jumper in Skyfall.
Bond’s black trousers are made of woollen flannel, and the trousers are the same as what he wore earlier for golf. Woollen flannel provides warmth and a relaxed look, but also reflecting less light than smooth worsted wool trousers so Bond stays better hidden at night. The trousers have a flat front with frogmouth pockets and Daks-style side-adjusters with three buttons on each side that fasten to elasticised tabs. The trousers have a trim silhouette with narrow, straight legs that are pressed with a crease. Connery’s tailor Anthony Sinclair likely made these trousers. Black jeans would have been a more practical choice, but Bond chose the elegance of flannel.
Black socks with a red band at the top and black calf shoes complete the look. The shoes are like short chelsea boots with elastic gores at the sides. They have a plain toe on a traditional almond-shaped last. The shoes have black leather soles and heels, but the soles and heels worn away to the natural leather colour.
When Bond enters the lavatory of Auric Goldfinger’s private jet to change into his glen check suit, he’s wearing a different pair of shoes. These shoes are most notably different due to their natural tan leather soles, embossed with the word ‘HANDLASTED’. These shoes also have a full leather heel that slides open to conceal a homing device. These are the same two-eyelet derby shoes that he wears with some of his suits in the film. They have a plain toe and a heel counter.
These two pairs of shoes are worn interchangeably throughout the film with little regard for continuity. The elastic-gore shoes are slightly less formal than the derbies and lend themselves better to this casual outfit, but both are appropriate with this smart casual outfit.
Like with the diving suit at the start of Goldfinger, Bond again wears a small black rucksack with royal blue nylon straps. The blue straps contribute to the look by adding a much-needed pop of colour to help outline Bond’s silhouette for the audience in the dim scene.
Actually, black is a terrible color to hide at night. Night is never, ever totally black. Dark gray, green, etc. are better colors.
Even have a story, walking in a line through the woods so dark I literally cannot see my hand in front of my face. Everyone is just holding on to the back of the guy in front to keep from getting lost. But the guy in front of me has a black vest on, and I can see it clear as day, blacker than the night, so just follow that, no problem.
Hey Matt,
What fit would you say the polo and v-neck from John Smedley are? As I’m sure you’re aware, you can get Dorsey, Cotswolds, Finchley, and many more when you go to their website. If one truly wanted to replicate Sean Connery’s look which fit would they want to go for?
shoobe01, it's true that black isn't always a good choice for night camouflage. But it does have the advantage of not reflecting light. And Bond typically wears black at night. Someone should tell him to wear something else for those night missions. The grey ninja outfit in You Only Live Twice was better camouflage.
There's something I've always disliked about a polo shirt worn under a pullover. For some reason it looks sloppy to me. Otherwise, the all black is not a bad casual look.
He looks like Gary Player!
Good spot, Matt. I thought it was a long sleeved polo. I have a Ralph Lauren long sleeved black polo and it reminds me of this outfit. It is very elegant. Of course they could have fitted Connery with just the jumper (I suspect it was a short sleeved polo underneath) but wearing a collar is always more flattering and smart looking.
On the mention of the YOLT Ninja suit (which I'm looking forward to you examining!), I have a mid-grey rollneck/turtleneck/poloneck by Sunspel. I think it has been on their books for a long time (recently removed from the website, but available in-store and in their factory, in addition to other stockists) and it is quite possible that this is in fact the same garment used in YOLT.
Matt, on this theme, I'd like to see you cover Moore's all black emsembles; the black polo neck and trousers in Live and Let Die and the black zip shirt in Moonraker.
David C, it's an odd co-incidence but I have been looking to source some 100% cotton polo/roll necks myself recently and the style is not so easy to find nowadays. I contacted Sunspel only yesterday and they say they only have them for wholesale and this is being discontinued but they provided links to stockists, as you say. The English firm John Smedley also produced polo necks in merino wool and cotton and i think these may have been the make who supplied Roger Moore's in LALD, Moonraker and FYEO but i can't be sure. What do you think, Matt?
Smedley were, in my opinion, superior in quality to Sunspel but recently the necks on polos i purchased from them didn't hold their shape and i stopped buying them.
There seem to be some numbers and maybe a letter (shoe fit ?) engraved on the sole as well. I spotted a 10, maybe the size ? Could the shoes be ready to wear then ?
On another topic, I want Connery’s backpack when I go out ! Maybe Orlebar Brown will offer a « reinterpretation » soon for a couple of hundred pounds hahah
What on the shoe looks like a “10” to you? Based on his height, Connery most likely would have worn shoes larger than a UK 10.
On the sole on the right, it’s upside down on the screenshot. On the left it seems like a letter like E or F. Maybe they just used a rtw shoe or even a prop shoe for that particular shot of the hidden compartment heel. It would make sense. I don’t think there’s an automatic correlation between shoe size and height. For example I am just a little less taller than Connery at 6 feet 1 inch but I am a UK size 8.
It looks more like 12 1/2 to me, and would be quite a large shoe! I’ve found sources online that say Connery wore a size 12, but I don’t put stock in them.
You’re right it definitely looks like a 12 1/2. So maybe a rtw pair/ prop was used just for this shot. I always thought the trousers Connery wore were a tad too narrow (I know 60s fashion) considering the size of his feet.
This does indeed seem very similar to some of the John Smedley v necks, particularly the ‘Bobby’.which has the turnback cuffs. I have a few of them although not in black. They’re great jumpers, I often wear my navy one in a similar way to this with a navy jersey shirt underneath. Looks like a long sleeve polo from a distance but reveals a slightly different look up close.
There’s definitely no correlation in height and shoe size, I’m 5’11 and wear a size 13!
For a long time I thought this was a long sleeved polo as worn in Thunderball – it’s only with the advent of digital renderings and Matt’s highlighting of the details that I realised it’s a polo and v neck.
I don’t have much need for knitwear but if the fit is close it’s a good look – as noted above, a hint of classic golfer there. On crisp Spring days I sometimes wear a polo under a v neck.
The ‘Chelsea shoes’ are OK in terms of matching the level of formality of the rest of the outfit but seem to be incongruent with sneaking around in the underbrush spying on Goldfinger’s smelting operations. Something at least with a rubber sole – chunky commando soled loafers or black leather classic trainers etc would have maintained the congruence – even in the bar for post mission drinks! – and been more appropriate in the bushes than shiny calf leather shoes with leather soles.
Agreed, the most versatile shoes to me seem a pair of dark brown chukka boots. Perfectly convenient for sneaking around and yet also appropriate for going out, they can be dressed up with a sports coat. They work with jeans, flannels, chinos. Funnily enough the shoes Connery wore with his brown twed jacket just before the sneaking scene would have been much more practical. I guess they wanted to go for the whole black look as it looks more dramatic onscreen, and maybe to contrast more with Goldfinger’s outfit and laser scene set. In Thunderball realistically Connery slips while being on a roof and wearing black dressy shoes with a leather sole. Let’s hope he learned his lesson !
Those trousers look more like a dark navy. They appear to be slightly lighter than the polo/jumper.
There are different shade of black, and the different fabrics reflect the light differently.