A new “Basted for Bond” infographic breaks down the wide-lapelled jackets, flared trousers and waistcoat that Roger Moore wears in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker, made by legendary Roman tailor Angelo Vitucci. Most of Angelo’s suit jackets are made in a button two style with wide lapels reflecting the fashion trends of the 1970s. Both single and double-breasted blazers, a double-breasted dinner jacket, a single-button suit jacket variation and a safari sports coat.
Great info as always, thanks Matt! Did Moore really wear a notch-lapel double-breasted jacket? I thought that wasn’t a (terrible) trend until the 80s…
Yes, in the opening scene from Moonraker. I also think it was a pretty unfortunate choice.
Apart from the wide lapels and flared trousers, these clothes are cut pretty timelessly though.
The button one suit jacket, Matt? Is it in reference to the off white suit from Moonraker?
Yes, that’s the one.
I really like the suit Moore wears in venice in Moonraker. You did an excellent piece Matt showing what this suit would look like if the 70s fashions were removed:
70s details aside, the suit certainly looks like it was made for Moore. Which is a stark contrast the the modern suits in Skyfall and Spectre.
I’ve noticed that a lot of 70s coats have very deep vents, going up to the waist. As in the Safari Sports Coat. Was this just a trend or does it benefit a wearer’s proportions in some way?
The deep vents were a 70s fashion.
You are so right! The suits in these two movies look dated, but they fit perfectly. There is no collar gap, no pulling at the button, no ugly triangle of shirt below the button, and the back is perfectly smooth. How I wish present-day Bond could wear something that fit so well!
The double-breasted dinner jacket is my favorite. And I don’t think it would look too anachronistic today. In fact, if an actor wore the jacket to next year’s Academy Awards, he’d likely be lauded for his style
Vitucci (ex Brioni) was a excessively focused on trends; in 60s tiny lapels, in 70s huge,broad lapels and flared trousers.
But quality was excelent.
Vitucci was not a tailor but a buisnessman and a stylist.
Under his supervision worked good cutters and tailors,and he had also a good quality ready to wear collection in his shop.
Too much for fashion victims in my opinion,Rome in that time was full with great tailors with a modern but more classic cut (Caraceni,Cifonelli,Nicola Pellegrino,Marcello Rotunno,and many others) whose suits today not seems costumes.
Great article. Actually, when described as such, the suits show a rather classic cut about the jacket. The trousers flare is what people remember most, but otherwise, the cut is still fairly decent. The absence of pockets is also rather uncommon.
Nice nod to the -(in)famous ?-Moonraker train tie, which has the same colors of the edge of the board ! ;)