Mr. Sinclair has made Mr. Connery, for his personal and film wardrobes, over 100 suits, “every overcoat, odd jacket, pair of slacks, dinner suit, everything.”
Sinclair’s other clients are also named: Gene Kelly, Robert Taylor, Richard Conte, Dane Clark and Richard Ney. Sinclair also made clothes for another actor known for playing a spy: Patrick McGoohan. Sinclair commented in detail about the style of his suits:
“I make clothes in the classic English tradition. I won’t make exaggerated, flamboyant clothes. I make only a Savile Row style. Nor will I put in any gimmicks. The only comment I want about my suits is that they are elegant. And I’ve given Connery the same cut I’ve given every customer all my tailoring life.”
What is that cut? Natural shoulders: “I don’t believe in padding.” If Connery’s suits look squarer in the shoulders than the grey herringbone suit Mr. Sinclair himself was wearing, it is because Mr. Connery’s shoulders are broader. A medium-width lapel: “I hate exaggerated styles. Everything should be in proportion. The eye shouldn’t be riveted on very narrow or wide lapels or wide shoulders or anything else–the suit is taken as a whole is the thing.”
Mr. Sinclair prefers two buttons, the top button falling naturally at the waist. Flapped pockets, with a ticket pocket, and side vents, about 10″ deep…Mr. Sinclair likes a bit of waist suppression, achieved with a front dart in solid fabrics, at the side in patterned fabrics, but too strongly defined waist, he feels, distorts the jacket’s lines. Sport jackets he cuts slightly longer, with a bit more flare to the skirt of the jacket, and he will sometimes use a deep center vent, starting from the waist, in a sport coat.
Sinclair kept to his traditional, sensible ways at a time when many tailors were going for even narrower lapels and gimmicks, like Cyril Castle across the street was starting to do with his suits for Roger Moore in The Saint. Sinclair also spoke about the construction of a good suit:
“But if you use a good woollen, tailor the insides properly, you should be able to take the suit, roll it into a ball, shake it out and have it fall into perfect shape. It’s the fabric and canvas and inner work you invest in a garment that should do the work.”
Also interesting are the prices for his suits in 1966: “$215 for a two-piece suit…$145 for a sport jacket, $250 for a dinner suit.” $215 in 1966 adjusted for inflation would be $1,550 today, but the equivalent today would cost three times as much. In a second article in this issue, Connery is said to have a 46″ chest and 33″ waist.
And finally, do any of the older American readers here remember a line of “007” clothes made by Trimount Clothing? The second article mentions it but goes into no detail.