The medium grey suit made for Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace isn’t the only suit that didn’t make it to the final film. A cream silk hopsack Tom Ford suit made for “Daniel Craig Bond 22“, as a label indicates, is currently for sale on eBay (click to see listing). The suit is made in the same Regency Base B model as the other suits in Quantum of Solace, and all of the details match.
The suit jacket has three buttons on the front with the lapel rolling to the middle button. This is known as a button two, show one or a three-roll-two. The lapels are a classically proportioned 3.5″* wide. The jacket is cut with a clean chest and a suppressed waist. The shoulders look straight rather than pagoda shaped like on Craig’s suits in the film, but that most likely has to do with the way the suit fits the mannequin rather than Daniel Craig’s body. The jacket has flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, 10″* double vents and five buttons on the cuffs. The last cuff buttonhole is longer than the others, and the corresponding button is placed misaligned from the other buttons to be seen peaking out under the top part of the sleeve.
The trousers have a flat front, slide-buckle side adjusters, two rear pockets and two darts on each side in the rear. The side pockets are on the side seam, which curves forward to the top. The trouser legs have 1.5″* turn-ups. The buttons on the suit are mother of pearl.
The quality of the handwork that goes into making a Tom Ford suit really gets lost on film. The hand-sewn Milanese buttonhole on the lapel is one of those fine details that is not apparent on screen, but up close it’s almost a work of art. This suit was made in one of Zegna’s three factories in Switzerland.
The suit is tagged an Italian size 50 R, which numerically converts to a 39 R in UK and US sizing. The jacket’s chest measures 21 inches armpit to armpit, the jacket’s length from the bottom of the collar to the hem is 30 1/4 inches, and the shoulders are 19 inches wide. These measurements are consistent with an athletic and trim-fitting 40 R. The trousers measure 32 inches around the waist, have a 10-inch rise in the front, a 33-inch inseam and a 17-inch leg opening. The inseam length is surprisingly long for a man who is 5’10” tall and wears his trousers with no break, but his legs are long compared to his torso.
I would guess that this suit was made to be an option for the Bolivia arrival scene, since it’s best worn during the daytime in a warm climate. It would have suited the locale extremely well. It also would have better flatted Daniel Craig’s complexion better than the dark, cool brown suit that he wears instead. But as others have pointed out, the dark clothes that Bond wears throughout Quantum of Solace fit his mood better than this cream suit would have. It’s a shame that this beautiful suit, along with the medium grey suit, didn’t make the cut for the film.
*Thanks to Jovan for asking the seller for measurements not listed.
You often mention a jacket has a ‘clean chest’. What do you mean by this?
As a side note, I would have loved for this suit to have been worn in the film.
Clean chest means that it fits closely and cleanly without drape.
Simply a real beauty, this one! The red tie wouldn’t work on Craig but I think it’s only decoration.
With a bit of luck, they’ll come up with a similar garment in (one of) the next film(s).
Beautiful suit! You’re so right it’s a shame that this great piece didn’t make it into the film. I think Craig really did wear not that many suits in QOS. More like casual clothes. So I agree with you that this would have been a good choice for the Bolivia arrival.
If I’m not mistaken, Craig wears five suits in QoS, which is more than he wears in CR and Skyfall.
I agree, this would have been a great suit for the Bolivia arrival, but Bond’s state of mind and his grief for Vesper made it inappropriate. That was clever filmmaking, IMO.
I do hope they will use a similar suit in the future films.
Matt, what do you think of the suit being made of silk. Seems unusual for Bond.
It’s very appropriate for a warm-weather suit, even though they tend to wear warm. The hopsack weave of this suit helps it in the hot weather. Bond actually has a long history of wearing silk suits, starting in From Russia with Love. Roger Moore also wore a lot of silk suits in the 1970s.
Do you think you could do a comparison of Bond silk suits?
I’ll look into it. I’m not sure if a fair comparison could be made between any of the silk suits.
I’m surprised it’s only a 50R, considering how much muscle Craig put on for the Bond films.
Congratulations on the great site and another great find (like the grey one from the cut scene and others from DAF just to mention a few examples). I would like to speculate about the combination. What do you think Matt? A pale blue shirt with blue tie (just line the opening sequence, mimicking the linen heringbone of Brosnan plus a tie) or white shirt with the ‘champagne’ Bolivia tie (same combo as the Brown suit Craig actually wears on the movie). Thanks.
Some would say the shirt should always be lighter than the suit, and a white shirt would be the only option. But I think a sky blue shirt would be better to add a little contrast. Either tie would work.
First of all, thank you very much for your very interesting website, Matt. Maybe this suit with a sky blue shirt could be similar to the final suit in Layer Cake film? https://www.bondsuits.com/layer-cake-cream-suit/
French blue shirt would look excellent too, with or without a tie.
Matt, we have some examples of a dark shirt wirh a cream suit (Roger more in rio with a light brown shirt, Brosnan in twine with a french blue shirt). Would you consider them wrong outfits?
What about the linen suit in OHMSS, is it ok, can i use a cream linen plain weave suit with a tie?
These casual types of suits are much different. Cream linen suits work well with a medium-dark shirt and no tie.
Thank you very much Matt!
If i may ask just one more question: can i use a cream linen suit at night in a hot place like Recife, in Brazil?
Sure you can. I’d wear it with a medium-dark blue shirt and no tie.
That’s Great. so i made a good choice buying a cream 100% linen suit. It will have huge amount of uses for me.
Thanks again for the great help Matt!
Beautiful suit, pity it didn’t make it into the film.
I’ve actually purchased two suits from this seller in the past, including a Tom Ford Base Model B like those seen in Quantum of Solace, and both times had a very pleasant buying experience. Unfortunately this particular example would be much too small for me and is a bit out of my price range!
Nice suit, but it would have been out of place in the film. The medium grey one is more consistent with the tone.
Why is a suit jacket meant for warm weather fully lined? I’d expect a half or third lined jacket, at most.
I like the shape but the colour is a bit too Scaramanga. I’m certain Daniel could have made it work, though.
I understand the subtlety of dressing Bond in all dark suits for QoS. That said, I don’t think this suit would’ve been out of place in the film. Worn with a white shirt and a navy tie, it would’ve still been a sober, yet location-appropriate ensemble.
White or off-white suits still connote certain things to most audiences. It’s good that they didn’t use it, but would have been nice for Daniel Craig to keep for his own personal use. Perhaps they offered and he just didn’t want it, who knows. He has plenty of other Tom Ford clothing in his wardrobe.
You know, the way the trouser pockets are constructed is pretty neat, but I’m not as fond of the side tabs being between the waistband and rest of the trouser like that. When you consider that the trousers sit below the waist, it seems like one would be doing more adjustments during the day… not ideal. I know it’s one of TF’s hallmarks, but still.
What a nice looking suit. Although if the setting is Bolivia, silk would be a bit hot.
It really is a shame we don’t have a picture of him wearing this suit. I think he would look wonderful in it. With a light blue shirt and a dark red tie or something similar like that. Somebody brought up the cream suit from layer cake and I agree it looks very good on Craig. However, even in that movie he was wearing the suit only at the very end, when he has defeated his rivals, gotten the girl and getting ready to ride off into the sunset (or so he thinks). So yeah, the suit would probably look out of place in QoS where he is scowling most of the time.
A bit surprised by the 17″ leg opening – would have expected something closer to 16″, given the ways that Craig is tailored in these recent films.
The only other photo I can find that show his cuffs is here – also the arrival scene in Bolivia:
Are they a bit flared / bell-bottomish in that photo? Can’t tell. I’m Craig’s height (though certainly less fit!), and over the years I’ve asked my tailor to play around with rise, the fit of the thighs, and leg opening measurements. The last of those three areas seems to be significantly important in affecting my appearance. All of this has led generally to a view that the cut of trousers is dramatically overlooked when we think about how suits fit. So much attention is paid to the jackets – what will make you look tall/thin/fit, etc? Comparatively little attention is paid to the fit of the trousers (beyond flat front vs pleats, which always gets heavy attention). But to what extent are people paying attention to the width of the trouser leg at the opening, knee, and thigh?
great post, Matt!!
These trousers look like they have a fairly straight leg and aren’t flared. I find that thighs look best when they are cut trim but not tight. As you can see in my most recent post on Connery’s trousers, the trimmer thigh in From Russia with Love is more flattering than the larger thighs in Dr. No. Whether they’re cut straight or tapered from the knee doesn’t seem to affect so much how flattering they are. Baggy thighs are much harder to pull off.
Have to agree with Matt. It’s only in Skyfall that the leg opening seems more like 16″. That amount of taper is not very flattering to Craig’s muscular calves (and sticks to them when he stands up!). I also like the standard 17″ opening and have it on most of my trousers, it balances well with a trim look without going overboard. Overall, I prefer the tailoring in this film because it is modern, flatters his physique, yet won’t date itself as much as the tailoring in Skyfall. I think they could have made the rise higher on his trousers and still dislike the gimmicky “permanently opened” fifth sleeve button, but that’s about it. Thankfully you can opt out of that last feature when getting a suit fitted at the actual TF store, though I hear they insist on trouser cuffs on all suits short of black tie.
Does the trouser inseam actually measure 33” or are they just labeled that length? If the inseam is labeled 33” maybe the extra length was used to make the turn ups making the inseam around 29”-30”.
They actually measure 33 inches. These trousers would come unfinished so they wouldn’t have an inseam measurement tagged anyway.
This is my very first posting in here (long time lurker, though), so first I’d like to thank you for the effort, care and sound information you put on every post! Then, on to my comment: this cream suit is a thing of beauty, and I’d love to see it grace the screen. However, one of the most blatant misconception in QoS was the depiction of La Paz as a warm place, as the stereotypical Latin American place. Let’s not forget that its airport sits at over 4,000 meters above sea level, and that the city centre is less than 500m below. So it’s mostly cool, or even chilly throughout the year (mostly between 5 and 17 degrees Celsius). At nights (I always notice that on the scene where Bond and Leiter share a beer), it can be (and usually is) rather cold. No warm climate, there!
They actually filmed the La Paz scenes in Panama City, which has the warm climate depicted. This would certainly have been a great suit for Panama City.
I actually think this suit would have been used when Bond goes to Mathis after the Bregenz Opera scene. Presumably the makes realised Bond wouldn’t have access to his suits after being burned by MI6 and so dressed him in things he could have bought off the rack.
I’d love to know what shoes Matt thinks would have been selected to wear with this suit.
Top site Matt.
Thanks! I would guess that Bond wears the same Church’s Ryder III brown suede two-eyelet chukka boots that he wears with the shawl-collar cardigan. There weren’t any dressier brown shoes in the film, though it is possible they used the black oxfords with this suit that they used with other suits. Roger Moore occasionally wears black shoes with suits this colour, though it’s not an ideal pairing.
Thanks Matt, I guess the Ryders would be the default. Certainly agree the oxfords would be far from ideal (they even jarred with me a little paired with the brown suit!). However as we’re with Church’s here I can’t help thinking a pair of sandalwood Shannon would’ve been nice with the cream.
Number one, I think that this suit is nice, but it might have made too much of a statement for Quantum of Solace’s mood. I noticed that the tie and the pocket square are pretty much in the same shade of red. Would that have been the wrong thing to do, because I hear a lot of people say that the pocket square should not match the tie? However, I see a lot of guys at my school do that for prom, matching their bowties/ties to their pocket square. They mostly do that because a lot of guys wear black shirts with black tuxes, and I personally like that look a lot. I might do that for my tux, depending on my date’s dress color and the color of my tie and vest. I think that if you are wearing a black shirt with a black suit/tux, it’s o.k to have the pocket square match the tie/bowtie.
I would probably use as a prom outfit:
a black tux(1 button peak lapel, no vents)
royal blue tie/bowtie
black/royal blue vest
would you like that outfit for a prom?
The tie and pocket square should not match like this. But this tie and pocket square are only clothes that the eBay seller paired with them and wouldn’t have been what Craig would have worn with the suit.
Sorry, but that prom outfit doesn’t sound so great. You should follow James Bond’s example for black tie if you want to be well-dressed: https://www.bondsuits.com/wear-black-tie-like-james-bond/
Following classic black tie, you won’t clash with your date. If you want to match your date’s dress, you can do it with your pocket square . You can do it with a waistcoat too, but you’ll need to have that custom made because proper low-cut waistcoats are difficult to find, even in black. The bow tie must be black.
I do admire Bond’s black tie outfits; they are great, however, that would be really hard to find and really weird for prom at my school. Even the one button peak lapel is different from 95% of what other guys are wearing, which is a 2-button notch lapel jacket. Also the likelihood that my date is wearing a black dress is not very high, so I would only come close to black tie if that were to happen. Wearing a pocket square other than white with black tie just looks really weird and bad, so I’m not sure I would want to do that. Also, black tie is only optional at my prom.
My date said that she will probably be wearing a royal blue dress, so I decided to go for a black shirt because the color of the royal blue tie/bowtie shows better than it would against a white shirt, and because black and blue are my favorite colors, so I would like to combine them together. Do you understand why I chose those details and I’m likely going to stay with it? If this were a different kind of event other than a prom, I would have done black tie.
these are what I am thinking of:
This isn’t the place to come for typical prom-wear since it’s not anything close to what Bond would wear. Gentlemen don’t need to match their clothes to their dates. I wore proper black tie to my prom and wasn’t out-of-place, though only a few other people came in proper black tie. I can understand why you chose these details, but you can do better than this. If you don’t think a blue pocket square looks bad with a black jacket, why do you think a blue tie with a black jacket and black shirt looks any better?
I said that I don’t like a blue pocket square with a black tie outfit, however I think it is fine to wear on a black jacket. I like the look of a black shirt with a black suit/tux because it is a change from the normal white, which is too one-dimensional. For example, Will Smith wore a Tom Ford windsor black 3 piece suit with a black shirt, and I think he looked pretty good in it. My skin is only a bit lighter than his.
Here is the picture:
Also, here is a picture of Terence Crawford at the ESPYS doing the same thing as Smith, only he added a yellow tie.
Do you think that a black suit with a black shirt looks good for a person like me, I have black hair and medium brown skin? I personally like the look a lot.
Neither of those outfits look very good. For you, a black shirt can look okay with a black suit colour-wise on you, but it’s very one-dimensional. White with black has a far more two-dimensional look, and the contrast will look better on you. Will Smith could benefit from contrast.
As you said earlier, the tie and the pocket square should not match. However, I have been wondering why it is like that? I haven’t ever done it before, but it wonders me to why everyone says that you shouldn’t be wearing a tie and pocket square of the same color and patterns. Could you explain to me why it is a rule?
Here I have 2 pictures of Brazilian Rapper Don Omar wearing a suit with a matching tie and pocket square. It for some reason does not look too bad.
And many boys at my prom do that with their bowties and pocket squares.
A matching tie and pocket square looks amateurish and shows no thought was put into wearing the pocket square. It also looks cheap since decent brands don’t sell sets of matching ties and pocket squares. The tie and pocket square are separate entities and thought needs to be put into each.
The Bond Experience had an unused, lighter toned Harrington jacket that could’ve been used as an alternative for the sequence. That would be worth taking a look at.
Do you know if the Zegna factories used by Tom Ford work only for them, or are they used for a particular Zegna line ?
Sorry for dredging up an old article, Matt.
Anyways, this suit, much as my negative thoughts of Ford were known, inspired me to have a similar one made. It’s out of wool, of course, but a very lightweight, smooth woolen, in the same ecru color, made for tropical weather, very similar to this one, but more practical. I wear it with a light blue shirt and burgundy tie. Honestly, I looked like a d-bag, but the entire ensemble is a statement.
Of course, donning such an outfit, we know what we’re getting into, hence why Bond did not make use of this outfit, given the setting and theme of QoS. But frankly, every men could make use of this outfit, particularly if they reside by a shore, anywhere. Ecru is such an underrated color when it comes to suiting.
Oh and, don’t forget to pair it with the lightest shade of light blue for shirts, because the last thing you want is the suit speaks on your behalf, and not you. In other words, an ensemble like this one will demand you control it, because otherwise, it can easily control you. Never let that happen.