For On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Dimi Major of Fulham, London tailored all of George Lazenby’s suits, jackets and trousers, except for his highland dress. I present to you an order form for one of Lazenby’s outfits in the film. The customer specified on the form is ‘James Bond’ rather than George Lazenby, so it’s as if Bond himself used Dimi Major in universe. This would likely mean that Lazenby’s clothes for the film have “JAMES BOND” written on the label rather than the actor’s name or “BOND 6”, the style of Daniel Craig’s Tom Ford suit labels.
Publishing this photo here was made possible by Sajid Wahid of Niven Tailors, whose customer provided this for my use. We have done our best to decipher what the writing on the form means, but Wahid laments, ‘Tailors’ writing is like doctors’.’ The handwriting can be difficult to read, and much of the writing is done in shorthand, both of which pose challenges to interpreting the form.
The form is from the Major Hayward Limited firm at 11 Royal Parade, Dawes Road, Fulham, SW6. Major Hayward was the partnership of tailors Dimi Major and Douglas Hayward. By the time Major tailored On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Hayward had left to open his own shop on Mount Street in Mayfair. Major changed the name of the business to D. Major Bespoke Tailors Ltd., but the forms with the name of his former partner were not to be binned after the partnership broke up.
The order was placed on 9 September 1968 and was to be delivered by 20 December 1968. This meant they had three and a half months to complete the outfit. The time frame for most of the outfits for the film may have been similar. The order was placed one month before Lazenby was announced to the public as Bond at The Dorchester hotel on 7 October 1968, at which time Major had completed a navy herringbone three-piece suit for Lazenby to wear for the occasion.
This order is for a single-breasted ‘blazer’ with three buttons on the front, three buttons on the cuffs, a single vent in back, double stitching, two slanted flapped pockets with an out ticket pocket.
This description does not perfectly match any jacket in the film. The closest is the hacking jacket in black, brown and cream houndstooth with a red overcheck. That jacket differs by having only one cuff button instead of three, though it’s possible that was changed during the production of the jacket without altering the order form. Three cuff buttons was standard for Major.
The trousers are likely the beige trousers paired with the hacking jacket. The trousers have no pleats, plain hems and elastic adjusters at the waistband, which means they have buttoning Daks Tops. The seams are raised for a sportier look. It has two front pockets and two hip pockets, but I cannot figure what kind of pockets are specified for the front. The pockets are not visible in the film, but they are likely frogmouth/cross pockets, which would be most appropriate for horseback riding.
Though the jacket measurements are not provided, there are a series of numbers listed under trouser measurements. They appear to be 43L – 33 – 32 – 40 – 16 1/2. These could be outseam, inseam, waist, hip and hem. If anyone knows differently, leave a comment below. Any insights as to decipering this form in the comments below are welcome.
The cost for the jacket and trousers was £57 and 15 shillings. Today that converts to £1,343.83 or $1,871.15 US. That was the going rate for a quality bespoke suit at the time. A bespoke suit of this quality would cost considerably more today, and the prices have gone up in line with other luxury items.