A Sartorial Guide to No Time to Die

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From the No Time to Die trailer and from behind-the-scenes photos, we have seen Daniel Craig wearing four tailored outfits in the film, including three suits and one dinner suit. Tom Ford returns as James Bond’s primary suit and shirt provider. The film has a new costume designer, Suttirat Anne Larlarb, who worked with Daniel Craig and Tom Ford on many of the suits featured in the film. We’re seeing a similar suit style to what Daniel Craig has worn in his last two Bond films.

This article provides an overview of Daniel Craig’s sartorial looks in No Time to Die, but after the film is released there will be more in-depth articles on each of these outfits and more. Details will be updated here as they are discovered prior to the film’s release.

I would like to give a special thanks to the clothing brands, Bond Lifestyle, The Bond Experience, @whatsdanielwearing, Iconic Alternatives, members at AJB007 and others for identifying some of the items listed here.

Beige Corduroy Suit

No Time to Die is the first time that Bond has ever worn a corduroy suit. But this “desert”-coloured suit is not made of the typical thick autumn corduroy but rather a fine cotton corduroy for warmer weather known as pinwale corduroy or needlecord. This suit is made by Massimo Alba, a brand that is new to Bond but not to Daniel Craig.

The suit has a modern Italian unstructured cut with soft, natural shoulders and a partial lining for cool-wearing comfort. It has a button two, show one jacket fastening, which also called a “three-roll-two” because it has three buttons but the lapel rolls to the second button like on a button two suit. Two buttons is now by far the fashionable style today, but this suit’s buttoning style is considered stylish by many menswear enthusiasts. It is commonly found on unstructured Italian suits, but Tom Ford also use it on structured suits.

The suit jacket is detailed with straight flap pockets, a ticket pocket, double vents and four buttons on each cuff. The buttons are brown horn.

The trousers have a straight leg, a mid-rise and on-seam pockets. Though the trousers have belt loops, Bond wears them with braces from Albert Thurston in “dove grey”, which is a blue-grey. They are trimmed with brown crocodile-print leather ends, brown back elastic and brass adjusters. It is not ideal to wear braces on trousers with belt loops, but it’s not against “the rules”. What is against the rules is wearing a belt with braces because they serve the same function. We have yet to see why Bond is wearing braces. They may be hidden in the film and just be used as a practical choice for keeping his trousers in place during action scenes, though with braces this unique they are bound to be seen.

In another unusual choice for Bond he wears a cornflower blue shirt with a button-down collar. It may not suit the history of the character, but it is an appropriate choice with this casual suit. Daniel Craig is a personal fan of button-down shirts and may have chosen the shirt. The shirt has a front placket and two-button cuffs.

The tie is from New York-brand Alexander Olch and is their “Avery” necktie burgundy silk twill with bourette silk spots—they look like squares—in light blue and black. The tie is a custom width at 3 1/2 inches wide.

With this suit, Craig wears Drake’s Crosby moccasin-toe three-eyelet chukka boots in dark brown suede. These boots are unlined and have a crepe sole. He coordinates his blue socks with his shirt.

He wears the Barton Perreira Norton sunglasses with this suit.

You can read more about this suit at Iconic Alternatives.a

Black and Grey Prince of Wales Check Suit

Tom Ford made this suit of a Glen Urquhart check in black and grey, reminiscent of Sean Connery’s first checked suit in From Russia with Love. It’s similar to the glen check suit that Craig wears at the ‘New Digs’ in Skyfall but in a slightly larger scale with higher contrast. Tom Ford calls this pattern a “Prince of Wales” check, which is a popular name for this type of check whether or not is has an overcheck, and this suit does not have an overcheck. The suit has black buttons to match the black in the check.

The suit is almost the same style as his Tom Ford O’Connor suits from Spectre with a button two, show one jacket fastening, also called a “three-roll-two”. The jacket has narrow notched lapels, which are slightly narrower than in Spectre.

The jacket’s shoulders are lightly structured and have roped sleeve heads. The breast pocket is Tom Ford’s usual curved ‘barchetta’ shape. The hip pockets are gently slanted with flaps, and the flaps look slightly large compared with the narrow lapels. The cuffs have four buttons with only three fastened, and the last buttonhole is longer than the others, which is typical for Tom Ford’s finishing. There is a single vent in the rear of the jacket. The trousers have a mid rise, a flat front, slide-buckle side adjusters, narrow straight legs and turn-ups.

This suit has an improved fit over what Daniel Craig wears in Skyfall and Spectre, but it’s still not perfect. When Craig is standing in a relaxed pose, the suit appears to fit decently.

The white Tom Ford shirt has the tab collar from Skyfall and the “Dr No” cocktail cuffs from Spectre. The shirt has a placket front. Craig wears a folded white pocket square that matches the shirt.

The navy repp tie from Spectre—at least a very similar one—has also returned, and it appears to be the same 7.5 cm width. This one look like it is the same shade as the tie that he wears in Q’s lab in Spectre. He makes it in a symmetrical knot, possibly a half-Windsor.

For the first time since Goldfinger we see Bond wearing a tie clip, also known as a tie bar or tie clasp. This is a silver tie clip, and he wears it at the same height as his pocket square. This is a modern place to wear a tie clip, which is slightly higher than where it was usually placed during its heyday in the 1960s. Here it competes with the pocket square, a problem that could be solved be wearing the tie bar slightly lower.

The tie clip is meant to clip both the front and back blades of the tie to the shirt’s placket, but at one point we see that the clip is not attached to the shirt and the tie flaps about. It may have only become loose in that one shot, where Bond might be in a rush.

The black Crockett & Jones Highbury three-eyelet derby shoes from Skyfall return. Instead of a Dainite studded sole these shoes have Crockett & Jones’ City Sole, which is a studded rubber sole that they developed with the The Harboro Rubber Co. It has a sharper edge trimming and a reduced waist compared to the Dainite sole, so it looks dressier and more like a leather sole from the side.

He wears the Barton Perreira Joe sunglasses with this suit.

Blue Prince of Wales Check Suit

Tom Ford made a second similar Prince of Wales check suit in navy and mid blue, which is a more subtle check than the black and grey suit. Apart from the colour, with navy buttons to match it, this suit is exactly the same style as the black and grey Prince of Wales check suit.

The Tom Ford shirt is sky blue with a high point collar and the “Dr No” cocktail cuffs. Craig wears a folded white pocket square in the Connery fashion, instead of matching his pocket square to his blue shirt. The white pocket square breaks up the tone-on-tone look of the outfit.

The tie is difficult to identify from the photos, but it looks to be a muted dark blue and may have a crosswise rib or a subtle pattern. He ties it in a four-in-hand knot. Like with the black and grey suit, he wears a silver tie clip with this suit and tie, and he wears it in the same position.

He wears the same Crockett & Jones Highbury and Barton Perreira Joe sunglasses again with this suit.

Black Dinner Suit

Tom Ford provided for No Time to Die what they do best, a dinner suit. This black Atticus-model single-button dinner suit is most reminiscent of what Craig wears in Quantum of Solace, with a nontraditionally pick-stitched shawl collar, jetted pockets, gauntlet (turnback) cuffs and covered buttons, all trimmed in black silk satin. Like the Skyfall dinner jacket, this one has a single vent.

The shawl collar has a straight buttonhole like Craig’s dinner suit in Quantum of Solace has, but the buttonhole is angled upwards towards the shoulder.

He wears a white shirt from Tom Ford with a pique cotton front with a poplin body, collar and cuffs. It has a point collar, “Dr. No” cocktail cuffs, and a plain (French) front with mother-of-pearl buttons. The black bow tie is a slim batwing. He wears a folded white pocket square and black braces.

35 COMMENTS

  1. I think a beige suit is very welcome to the Bond series, even if it is in a casual cotton corduroy. The finer wale cotton is much more modern and a lot more cool wearing.

  2. Hi Matt. I need your expertise about Bond clothing for the tuxedo worn in NTTD.
    I surely know we’ll have to wait the film to be shown for more details, but I came across a Sun article with a very interesting photo (I put the link below). In the photo were Daniel is clapping his hands, we can see a glimpse of the cuffs and it looks like he’s sporting Dr.No cuffs like Connery did in Thunderball.
    Do you think it’s a possibility or a simple optical effect due to the low quality of picture?
    Please let me know.

    https://www.thesun.co.uk/tvandshowbiz/10218369/daniel-craig-goodbye-james-bond/amp/

  3. This tailored wardrobe improves upon Skyfall and Spectre, well not being so radically different as to seem incongruous with the “look” that Craig’s Bond has adopted since 2012. Would I prefer to see grenadine or knitted ties rather than repp? Wider lapels rather than narrow? Double vents rather than single? Yes to all, but he looks better here than he’s looked in a decade. The grey suit in particular evokes Connery in a way that is instantly recognizable to even a casual observer. The cocktail cuffs on the shirts, and gauntlet cuffs on the dinner jacket, are also subtle, stylish choices that show us Bond’s high degree of refinement. I’m not mad about the corduroy suit/shirt/tie, but I suspect it will be explained by the story so I won’t judge it too harshly.

  4. For the photograph of Bond standing by the clerk’s desk I thought you’d placed a box around the suit’s waist to emphasize exactly where it falls short in fit, then I realised it was the glass from the window. It serves it’s purpose I guess!

    So far I like the outfits in the film. I don’t love the O’Connor cut compared with the Regency, but I’m glad for Craig’s Bond’s sake that he finally has a consistent style for three out of five films.

  5. I’m not mad about the button-down collar worn with a tie, which seems better suited to Felix Leiter, or yet another single vent on a dinner jacket. (It will mark eight years where Bond doesn’t know how to dress his rear for black tie!) I hope the former outfit makes sense in context, like Bond’s funeral attire in Spectre.

  6. I think most outfits have great suitings and color combinations.
    The fit while not bespoke-perfect is much improved. Only some accessories seem superfluous and are too eye catching like the braces, especially with not a jacket on, the sunglasses, the high tie bar.
    I like the casual beige suit with the blue button down collar -which looks flattering on Craig’s face- combination a lot, and cocktail cuffs are more than welcome !

    The single vent on a dinner jacket is probably what looks like the biggest mistake (plus the collar gap :/).

    The casual outfits look great : they are flattering while not too tight, and there seems to be a lot of variety in style and color schemes.

    I still think Craig would look better with a bit more hair but at least they are consistent with his hairstyle too.

    • I don’t think the suspenders are particularly eye-catching or superfluous, especially since they’re tone matched to the shirt. Wearing suspenders may come off as an affectation after they became associated with the Wall Street robber barons of the 1980s, but those aren’t the boldly striped suspenders with white goatskin hardware that Gordon Gekko wore. Subtly colored ones with darker hardware are less noticeable than a belt, especially with the jacket on.

      Normally Craig’s bond wears side adjusters with no belt or suspenders, so it’s more than he normally wears, but those are understated.

      • I think the issue is that we’re not used to braces being worn by Bond in anything less than black tie. In fact, I can’t recall a single instance offhand where he wore braces with a lounge suit before. They seem a particularly odd choice on such a casual, unconstructed, warm weather suit and paired with a button down collar.

      • Exactly Jovan, that’s what I implied ! 🙂
        I think a simple belt or side adjusters would have worked better here. Plus I think pairing braces with suit trousers with belt loops look awful. The belt loops imply wearing a belt. Otherwise it’s has an ugly unfinished look, like a suit without tie.

  7. Matt,

    What are your thoughts on the sage green coat & the white Henley briefly seen in the trailer? Do you think it’s a characteristic outfit for Bond? It seems a bit out of place, but maybe it suits the narrative of the story in some way.

    • I think we need to wait to see what the context is. I like the coat, but it seems like a strange choice to wear only over a henley. The henley isn’t a traditional Bond choice, and it’s not a piece I care for, but Daniel Craig loves them.

  8. Matt,

    Great article!
    You wrote “The white pocket square breaks up the tone-on-tone look of the outfit.”
    Do you think that this Connery-esque detail makes the suit overall more interesting?

  9. Excellent work, as ever; Thank You Matt. The Easter parade seems too far away.
    And, personally, my favourite scenes in any Bond movie are those where “Bond might be in a rush” 😉

  10. Nicely done ensemble wardrobe, consistent with Craig’s Bond’s look over the last decade. On the single vent, my belief is that they have decided that a single vent works better with Craig’s physique. Overall, pretty well-done.

  11. I think it would have been best of Craig had stepped back from Bonds Wardrobe and let the Professionals handle it. It really seems like its going in all directions.

  12. I am personally happy how Craig re-introduce the turnback cuff back into the series.
    I also like how Craig will wear a turnback cuff with his black tie attire.
    Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the last time we saw Bond wear a turnback cuff shirt with black tie was in Moonraker.

    • I believe you are correct. Matt and I disagree about this, but I feel the cocktail cuff is a little too informal for evening attire. However, I have never actually worn one with black tie myself. My opinion might change if I were brought to a villain’s lair and they did the, “I took the liberty of providing you with a change of clothes. I trust this will do?” shtick. 😉

  13. Don’t you think the outfit he wears in London is rather poorly executed? Not only does the suit still fit like Craig is on his way to a school prom, but the tie is clearly way too short when he gets out of the Aston Martin (and to think they used that as a publicity shot). Then, when he’s inside, we see that he’s tied it in a shapeless knot where it puffs out from his tab collar like he’s tied a nylon stocking round his neck, accentuating the ellipsis created by his lapels pulling out at either side because of the jacket’s narrow shoulders. That combined with the tie clip makes this a real poor show, imo.

  14. I miss the outfit with command, Jamaica, helicopter (where it appears with lashana lynch), Matera Romantic Outfit and the Garage Outfit. Unless you just describe the suits to give your opinion on the bond casual outfits you didn’t mention

  15. Mr. Spaiser,
    I got myself a corduroy suit albeit with a bit more structure in it. Not a fan of the shirt and tie used in the film.
    Can you recommend another shirt and tie?
    P.s. ( i know I said corduroy….thrift store but the wife saw things a different way….you know how it goes)

    • I also just bought a (structured) stone coloured cord suit, which is arriving in the next few weeks. I’m not a massive fan of Daniel Craig’s outfits in execution, but conceptually they’re right up my alley.
      He does inspre me, and I must applaud him for that, credit where it’s due.

      I’ll have to try this oxford shirt/burgundy knitted tie combo.

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