Whilst an ivory dinner jacket is appropriate in a Monte Carlo casino, it’s out of place in a Las Vegas casino unless you’re James Bond. Bond wears one in Diamonds Are Forever at a Las Vegas casino where most people dress down. Apart from Bond’s wide bow tie and the wide pocket flaps on his dinner jacket, this is a classic warm-weather black tie outfit. It looks especially traditional compared to the flamboyant black dinner jacket Bond wears later in the film. The ivory dinner jacket has the same cut as the other Anthony Sinclair jackets in the film have: a clean chest and soft shoulders with roped sleeve heads.
The button one dinner jacket has medium-width peaked lapels with a very high gorge. Today you can find examples of peaked lapels where the peaks rise up above the shoulders, but the peaks on the dinner jacket are about as high as peaks can tastefully be to help slim a heavier Sean Connery.
The jacket’s hip pockets are slanted with large flaps, a utilitarian pocket style that is out of place on a dinner jacket. The slant gives easier access to the pockets on horseback, and flaps keep items inside the pockets. However, the benefits of slanted and flapped pockets are unnecessary on a dinner jacket, and such a sporty pocket doesn’t have the simple elegance of a straight jetted pocket. Slanted pockets were trendy in the 1970s, hence their inclusion here. Tucking in the pocket flaps could instantly remove the bulk of the pocket flap and make for a more elegant and appropriate, though still not entirely traditional, look.
The dinner jacket also has deep double vents, which are another practical sporting element added to this dinner jacket that breaks from tradition, but Bond’s dinner jackets have often had double vents. There are four buttons on the cuffs, and all of the buttons on the jacket are white sew-through mother-of-pearl.
With the jacket, Bond wears midnight blue trousers with a darted front, tapered legs and a midnight blue satin silk stripe down the side of each leg. They are probably supported with “DAKS-tops”-style button-tab side-adjusters. The white-on-white stripe shirt from Turnbull & Asser has a spread collar, double cuffs and pleated front with mother-of-pearl buttons down the placket. The double cuffs are made in Turnbull & Asser’s usual style with the link holes close to the fold to better show off Bond’s oval gold-set black onyx cufflinks.
Connery’s bow ties always followed the trendy width, and his wide black satin silk butterfly-shape bow tie in Diamonds Are Forever is no exception. The bow tie complements the width of the jacket’s peaked lapels.
As typical for Connery’s Bond, he does not wear any waist-covering (cummerbund or waistcoat) with this dinner jacket. In some shots he wears the same black patent leather two-eyelet, plain-toe derby shoes on a chiselled-toe last that he later wears with the black dinner suit. In other shots he wears black patent leather plain-toe oxfords, a more traditional shoe for black tie.