In Diamonds Are Forever, James Bond wears a lightweight suit in a very subtle black and white glen check in Amsterdam, posing as Peter Franks. The glen check is woven in a hopsack weave and is essentially the same as the famous three-piece glen check suit that James Bond wears in Goldfinger. The cloth has a strong sheen that suggests it’s a wool and mohair blend.
The suit jacket is like many of the other Anthony Sinclair suits in Diamonds Are Forever, with a button two front, four-button cuffs, double vents and slanted pockets with a ticket pocket. The shoulders are natural with roped sleeve heads, but the wider lapels, wider pocket flaps and deeper vents make the suit look a lot different from Sinclair’s 1960’s suits, even though the cut is almost the same. The biggest difference in cut is that these suits have less drape in the chest. The trousers have a darted front, button-tab side adjusters and plain hems. Since Bond is always in motion it is difficult to assess how well this suit fits, and being lightweight causes the suit to rumple more than usual.
Bond’s cream poplin shirt is from Turnbull & Asser, and it has a spread collar, placket front and two-button turnback cuffs with only the first button fastened. His tie is a black grenadine, also from Turnbull & Asser, and is tied in a large Windsor knot. Bond’s shoes are black oxfords with a stitched cap toe and a heel counter, most likely bespoke from John Lobb Ltd. It’s the most traditional and formal type of shoe to wear with a suit, and it’s the only time in the series Connery wears this type of shoe. Bond’s socks are medium grey to match his suit.
The latest issue of MI6 Confidential, which focuses on Timothy Dalton’s debut in The Living Daylights, features an article on the history of the Anthony Sinclair/007 relationship. Find out more at mi6confidential.com.