For his visit to the Minister of Defence’s office and Q-Branch in For Your Eyes Only, James Bond wears a medium-light grey, lightweight flannel two-piece suit from Douglas Hayward. This is the only single-breasted two-piece suit that Roger Moore’s Bond wears in any London scenes throughout his tenure as Bond. He typically wears a three-piece suit, and on one occasion he wears a double-breasted suit. But as he wears three-piece suits for two other scenes in the film, a two-piece suit here gives some variety and prevents Bond from looking too buttoned-up.
While the suit’s lightweight flannel is ideal for spring or autumn in London, in mid-grey it is much lighter than the colour of ordinary London business suits. Since Bond’s business is far from ordinary, he is able to break the conventions of ordinary business dress. Still, Bond has to look appropriately dressed for business in Whitehall and look respectable for when meeting with M, Q or the Minister of Defence, so he can’t stray too far from what is expected.
The suit jacket is a typical Doug Hayward example, cut with soft shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a clean chest, a low button stance and a medium-width lapels with a straight, high gorge. The low button stance works well with Roger Moore’s body, but it dates the suit to the trends of the 1980s. The trend, however, became a Hayward trademark. When the low button stance is combined with a high gorge, it creates a very long lapel line that lengthens the torso. This suit jacket has a button-two front, straight pockets with slightly wide flaps, three-button cuffs and deep double vents that extend to the height of the top of the hip pockets. The jacket’s buttons are grey unpolished horn.
The suit trousers have a plain front with a cash pocket at the base of either side of the front waistband and no side pockets. They are cut with a medium-width straight leg and are worn with a black belt. The trousers have a medium rise, which corresponds with the suit jacket’s lower button stance.
Bond’s cream cotton poplin shirt by Frank Foster, which is on full display in the Identigraph scene, has a high spread collar with long points, two-button mitred cuffs, a front placket stitched close to the centre and a darted back.
For Your Eyes Only brought Bond back to his origins after the over-the-top Moonraker. Along with the more traditional suits, here Roger Moore wears a silk grenadine tie like the ties Sean Connery so often wore in his Bond films. Moore matches his suit with a mid-grey grenadine tie. Whilst Connery usually wears dark grenadine ties in the EON Bond films, he wears the same grey grenadine tie two years later as Bond in Never Say Never Again. The low contrast of the tie with the shirt and suit is flattering to Moore’s low-contrast complexion. This is the only grenadine tie that James Bond has worn since Sean Connery played Bond. Moore makes the tie in a four-in-hand knot, and the thickness of the grenadine silk combined with a heavy interlining makes the knot quite thick. The tie’s narrow blade is slightly longer than the wider blade, which ensures the wide blade is not too long.
Moore’s shoes are black loafers with an apron toe. Though black matches the city look of this suit, loafers are not traditionally paired with suits in London.