Bond’s Grey Flannel Suit for the Office in For Your Eyes Only


For his visit to the Minister of Defence’s office and Q-Branch in For Your Eyes Only, James Bond wears a medium-light grey, lightweight flannel two-piece suit from Douglas Hayward. This is the only single-breasted two-piece suit that Roger Moore’s Bond wears in any London scenes throughout his tenure as Bond. He typically wears a three-piece suit, and on one occasion he wears a double-breasted suit. But as he wears three-piece suits for two other scenes in the film, a two-piece suit here gives some variety and prevents Bond from looking too buttoned-up.

While the suit’s lightweight flannel is ideal for spring or autumn in London, in mid-grey it is much lighter than the colour of ordinary London business suits. Since Bond’s business is far from ordinary, he is able to break the conventions of ordinary business dress. Still, Bond has to look appropriately dressed for business in Whitehall and look respectable for when meeting with M, Q or the Minister of Defence, so he can’t stray too far from what is expected.

The suit jacket is a typical Doug Hayward example, cut with soft shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a clean chest, a low button stance and a medium-width lapels with a straight, high gorge. The low button stance works well with Roger Moore’s body, but it dates the suit to the trends of the 1980s. The trend, however, became a Hayward trademark. When the low button stance is combined with a high gorge, it creates a very long lapel line that lengthens the torso. This suit jacket has a button-two front, straight pockets with slightly wide flaps, three-button cuffs and deep double vents that extend to the height of the top of the hip pockets. The jacket’s buttons are grey unpolished horn.

The suit trousers have a plain front with a cash pocket at the base of either side of the front waistband and no side pockets. They are cut with a medium-width straight leg and are worn with a black belt. The trousers have a medium rise, which corresponds with the suit jacket’s lower button stance.

Bond’s cream cotton poplin shirt by Frank Foster, which is on full display in the Identigraph scene, has a high spread collar with long points, two-button mitred cuffs, a front placket stitched close to the centre and a darted back.

For Your Eyes Only brought Bond back to his origins after the over-the-top Moonraker. Along with the more traditional suits, here Roger Moore wears a silk grenadine tie like the ties Sean Connery so often wore in his Bond films. Moore matches his suit with a mid-grey grenadine tie. Whilst Connery usually wears dark grenadine ties in the EON Bond films, he wears the same grey grenadine tie two years later as Bond in Never Say Never Again. The low contrast of the tie with the shirt and suit is flattering to Moore’s low-contrast complexion. This is the only grenadine tie that James Bond has worn since Sean Connery played Bond. Moore makes the tie in a four-in-hand knot, and the thickness of the grenadine silk combined with a heavy interlining makes the knot quite thick. The tie’s narrow blade is slightly longer than the wider blade, which ensures the wide blade is not too long.

Moore’s shoes are black loafers with an apron toe. Though black matches the city look of this suit, loafers are not traditionally paired with suits in London.


  1. A favourite of mine and like all of the suits Moore wears in this movie it's excellent. The accompaniments too. A deep burgundy colour tie would also work very well with this outfit.

    I bought (on Ebay, earlier this year, and for an excellent price) a Hayward suit from this era and it's a carbon copy in style to this but a different colour. It looks, and feels, great.

  2. Apart from the very low button stance which I don't particularly care for, Moore's Hayward suits have stood the test of time, especially when one compares them with Cyril Castle's, which were much more flashy and fashion-forward rather than understated and timeless.

  3. A very nice suit. Although it was a bit sloppy to leave the tail end of the tie hanging below the front end. Other than that, very good.

  4. DaltonFan, what's more important is that the front blade is the correct length, at his waist. It's not like the narrow end is visible with his jacket on anyway. Ideally he would have needed a shorter tie by about 2 inches. But there's nothing sloppy about it. He's just doing his best with what he has.

  5. I'm curious to know, what is it, (other than the fact that this particiular style is not currently popular) that people dislike about the low button stance of Hayward's 1980's suits?

    In my opinion this style gives a very clean flow and displays very well the equally well cut shirt and tie. Certainly much neater than the higher button stance and lower rise trouers which are currently popular and which show off a section of necktie between jacket and trousers.

  6. Once again I must agree with David; the current "shrunken" look which exposes a section of necktie between jacket and trousers, while also exposing two inches of buttocks is horrendous. Oh how I miss well-proportioned elegance!

  7. I agree. In my opinion, even tho the top button could be positioned an inch or so higher, the button stance on the Hayward suits is far from extreme. I also think that quite a lot of two-button jackets found right now have a too high button stance, making the overall silouette very buttoned up and in certain cases almost comic-y. This here is quite a good example:

  8. Mr. Please,

    Absolutely horrendous – out of proportion, way too short, and grotesquely overpriced. Long live eBay!

  9. Doesn't the lower button stance also work well with Roger Moore's body shape by elogating his trunk and shortening his long legs?

    I must agree completely with David and Dan. While I personally like a slimmer suit with narrower lapels, the current look is for jackets that are too tight and too short. But as always, the fashion will swing back (it seems to be getting to a ridiculous extreme after about 8 years of trending ever-slimmer) so that five years from now we will no doubt be bemoaning boxy, loose fits.

    Roger's suit above is beautiful and the grenadine is a nice touch.

    • Agreed, the pants do not appear to sit well in that shot, though I’d be more inclined to blame the entire appearance on the following:

      A. The manner in which the shirt isn’t tucked in well,
      B. The fish-mouth pockets, which make the pants look unusually straight at the hips, compounded that this pant line is parallel (if not on the same plane of) the shirt edge
      C. Moore has his right leg forward of his left, compounding the odd look.


  10. I don't get it either. The button stance appears no lower than on Connery's suits which most people here seem to like.

    I would have opted for something like these two colours for the tie instead. The grey seems rather matchy. I know Connery wore a matching navy grenadine with a navy suit once, but I didn't care for that either.

  11. I liked those looks apart from the tie choice. It should have been contrasted by a different colour tie.

    You're right that they're garza grossa. I pulled up the fina pages without looking too closely at the weave.

    It's a damn shame none of the modern Bonds have worn a grenadine tie. They're timelessly stylish.

  12. Agree with Jovan: a dark colored grenadine tie would have looked a little better. The slate one would have been just about perfect

    I purchased a made-to-measure navy grenadine tie from sam hober a few months ago – excellent tie, reasonably priced, and personal service.

    • It’s hard to define it in inches because a low rise for Sean Connery would be much different than a low rise for Daniel Craig. Roger Moore, for instance has long legs and a short torso, so a medium rise for him wouldn’t be as far below the waist as it would be on someone with a much longer torso. If I had to give a number, a medium rise is about 1-2 inches below the waist whilst a low rise is 3 or more inches below the waist. But it varies. As rises have become lower in general over the last decade, a medium rise would be thought of as lower than it used to be.

  13. The grey suit almost looks light grey in some lighting. I think a comparison between what Moore wore in the 1980’s to what Connery wore in Never Say Never Again is a good idea.

  14. Matt, these days typical business suit colors aren’t adhered to as much as they were 30 years ago, as I’m sure you have seen. London would be stricter though then say Melbourne or Sydney I would say to what is a appropriate business suit. Medium grey is acceptable in the city in my opinion, lighter blues maybe no lighter then a medium blue is more often seen these days in business then it would have in the past. Don Draper in Mad Men wore many less traditional colored suits to the office, lighter greys, medium browns, lighter blues, taupe.

  15. That is a beautiful flannel suit.
    Matt, are you able to guess whether it’s a worsted flannel or a woolen one ? Also what would be the weight of the cloth, approximately ?

      • Thanks for the precisions.
        Do you have any idea of what the ideal minimum weight for a worsted flannel cloth would be, so that a suit made of it would have a correct lifetime ? Like, say, a regular worsted ?
        I am very tempted by grey worsted flannel for my first made to measure suit but I don’t want it to last too little time either… quite a dilemma !


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