A First Look at the Bond 25 Suit Style

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We have our first look at Daniel Craig’s tailored style from the still-untitled Bond 25, and there are few surprises. Prince Charles paid a visit to the Bond 25 sets at Pinewood Studios on the 20th of June, and the press came with him to take many photos of the occasion. For this occasion Daniel Craig is dressed in character as James Bond in a black and white Glen Urquhart check suit.

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Bond 25 has a new costume designer, an American named Suttirat Anne Larlarb. Larlarb is a frequent collaborator of Bond 25’s original director Danny Boyle and was hired for Bond 25 when he still was to helm the film, and she stayed on with the production after Boyle’s departure. Tom Ford, the suit brand from all of Daniel Craig’s Bond films except Casino Royale, has returned for Bond 25 and many styles from Skyfall and Spectre return for this film. Though Jany Temime, the costumer designer from the previous two Bond films, did not return for Bond 25, many of the styles that she established for Bond are still present. This possibly signifies that Daniel Craig made many of the tailored wardrobe choices for his previous two Bond films since he is still dressing the same without Temime. Neither Larlarb nor the film’s stylish director Cary Joji Fukunaga have put their stamp on this outfit.

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This consistency in the tailored style is a welcome change for Craig’s Bond, who wore three different tailoring styles designed by three different costume designers throughout his first three Bond films. Daniel Craig is now on his fifth Bond films, and it is not the time to reinvent his style again. If Larlarb had any choice in the matter of Bond’s tailored clothing (this outfit may have all been Craig’s doing), she made the responsible choice not to give Craig yet another new look.

The suit is made of a black and white Glen Urquhart check reminiscent of Sean Connery’s first checked suit in From Russia with Love. This is similar to the glen check suit that Craig wears at the ‘New Digs’ in Skyfall but now it is in the classic high-contrast combination and in a slightly larger scale. It looks like that this outfit may be featured in a scene at M’s office, and after Skyfall and GoldenEye this is only the third time that Bond wears a checked suit to the office. A high-contrast check like this is rather sporty for the office, but we do not yet know the context of Bond’s visit.

Tom Ford calls this pattern a “Prince of Wales” check, which is a popular name for this type of check whether or not is has an overcheck. Was is just a coincidence that Daniel Craig wore this suit for the Prince of Wales’ visit to the set? The Prince of Wales himself wore a blue pinstripe suit for the occasion.

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Craig’s suit is the same as his Tom Ford O’Connor suits from Spectre with a button two, show one jacket fastening, also called a “three-roll-two” because it has three buttons but the lapel rolls to the second button like on a button two suit. Two buttons is now by far the predominant style today, but someone still appreciates the elegant style featured here. And while Tom Ford’s style still focuses on jackets with peaked lapels, this suit still has the usual notched lapels. The lapels are moderately narrow, just like in Spectre.

The jacket’s shoulders are lightly structured and have roped sleeve heads. The breast pocket is Tom Ford’s usual curved ‘barchetta’ shape, and the hip pockets are gently slanted with flaps. The cuffs have four buttons with only three fastened, and the last buttonhole is longer than the others. There is a single vent in the rear of the jacket. The trousers have a mid rise, flat front, slide-buckle side adjusters, narrow straight legs and turn-ups. The suit has black buttons to match the black in the Glen Urquhart check.

The fit of the jacket from these photos is difficult to judge because Craig is always posing with his hands behind his back. But there are clearly many improvements in the fit since Spectre. The shoulders look wide enough, the jacket length covers his buttocks, the sleeves can drape cleanly and comfortably and the trousers are not clinging to his legs. The trousers look slightly too long (which could be the result of sagging) and the jacket’s hips sometimes look too tight. But this suit does not appear to be bursting at the seams, and the suit does not look inappropriate on a more mature Bond. The suit’s fit is not perfect, but it is a tremendous improvement over the suits in Skyfall and Spectre.

The Tom Ford shirt is white with the tab collar from Skyfall and the “Dr No” cocktail cuffs from Spectre. Though I think the tab collar is too fussy for Bond, the cocktail cuffs’ return is welcome. The shirt has a placket front. Craig wears a folded white pocket square that matches the shirt.

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The navy repp tie from Spectre has also returned, and it appears to be the same 7.5 cm width. This one look like it is the same shade as the tie from Q’s lab in Spectre. For the first time since Goldfinger we see Bond wearing a tie clip. This is a silver tie clip, and he wears it at the same height as his pocket square. The tie clip (also known as a tie bar or tie clasp) is placed at the modern height, which is slightly higher than where it was usually placed during its heyday in the 1960s. Here it competes with the pocket square, a problem that could be solved be wearing the tie bar slightly lower.

When I wrote my article on James Bond and the tie clip at the beginning of this year, I did not expect it to appear in Bond 25 despite its current resurgent in popularity. James Bond only wore a tie clip once before: with his brown barleycorn tweed hacking jacket in Goldfinger. It is a rather fussy detail for Bond, but it goes along with the mid-century American look of the tab collar.

The black Crockett & Jones Highbury three-eyelet derby shoes from Skyfall return. Despite black shoes having become unfashionable in the last few years, it is a relief to see that Bond is still wearing them in a London business setting, where brown shoes will not do, especially not for a traditional military man like Bond.

41 COMMENTS

  1. Dear Matt,
    What is your opininon on Prince Charles’s suit and tie ?
    It is to me very British with (presumably) a vivid Turnbull & Asser tie, a nice pocket square and buttonhole, bengal stripe shirt with French cuffs (just to show how to match stripes between suit and shirt!) and Union Jack cufflinks (quite appropriate). It seems His Royal Highness is moving away from double breasted suits to single 3-button suits but still with jetted pockets where he often puts his left hand.
    The suit seems very light in construction ? Is it due to canvassing ?
    What is your opinon on the crease he has on his sleeves to match the trousers ?

  2. Agreed: a huge improvement. Am I right in thinking that the shoulders extend past the natural end of Craig’s?

    Maybe the costume designer or Craig himself has been taking notes from your blog, Mr Spaiser!

    • Yes, they go slightly past the end of his shoulders, which is necessary because his arms are large. It’s quite a flattering look, and it’s one that works with his body and doesn’t downplay his muscle like the narrower shoulders did.

  3. Well, this is much more like it! Craig wearing suits that fit him is a welcome change and the style and details look classic to me. Like you, I’m not a fan of the tab collar or the tie clip, but if that’s it, I think we have a winner here.

    I wore Highburys myself today, very comfortable they are too – a winning combination.

    If this is a sign of things to come then we’ll be in for a number of pleasing articles as production progresses and the film is released!

  4. Matt,

    I’d like to know what you think of Prince Charles’ suit. For me, I think the blue is too bright and the stripes too loud. But that is simply one man’s opinion.

    Also, Charles keeps his left hand in his suit coat pocket. I have never seen that before.

    Keep up the good work

    • Hi Jim,

      I’m a fan of Prince Charles’ suit. I think the brighter blue colour is flattering and helps him look less stodgy than a navy blue would. The stripes are not loud by British standards, though they’re not subtle either. It’s a classic British pinstripe. This contrasts with the classic American stripe that is very subtle.

      Charles has always had the habit of keeping his hand in his jacket pocket. I think it’s why he rarely wears jackets with pocket flaps.

  5. Considering what he wore in the Oscars, I thought Bond 25 would stick to the Atticus cut with wide lapels, also taking the more “mature Bond” concept into account. Do you have any observations as to why the O’Connor cut was chosen above the Atticus?

    • I think the Atticus is too bold in a suit for Bond, but maybe it will feature as a dinner jacket. Bold doesn’t fit the concept of a mature Bond in my opinion.

  6. Interesting. I bought a light grey Saxony Prince of Wales suit from Richard James’ AW 2018 collection that looks almost identical to what Daniel Craig was wearing.

  7. I love the jacket. It’s only a little tight and short, and the hourglass shape is beautiful. The trousers I wish were higher, so no shirt was exposed beneath the buttoning point. Pleats would be nice too, since they add shape and cause the trousers to flare out from the waistband, which I think matches nicely with the flare in the skirt, but that is probably too much to ask for in 2019. Prehaps by the time Bond 26 is filmed pleats will have again become fashionable and Bond will again be wearing them.

  8. I wish the lapels were a more traditional width, but overall I think he looks good. Much better than the last two films. The tab collar and tie bar are indeed too fussy, but these are minor quibbles. It’s pretty clear that Craig is calling the shots regarding how Bond should dress.

  9. Charles looks less than elegant, in his poorly fitted, wrinkley and creased jacket. Creased below the right pocket and on the right arm. Bulging above the belt on the right side. Horrible wrinkling at the back seen while shaking hands. Evidence that money can’t buy taste. Although, Craig’s suit is clearly tailored well. The light weight fabrics wrinkle easily as seen on his left arm in the same handshaking photo. Elegance is missing from both of these lightweight suits as well as, from many of the suits currently sold on the market today. An elegantly tailored suit makes imperfect and elderly bodies appear smooth and look refined. Even a perfect body like Craig’s should appear smooth and without buldges and wrinkles in a well made suit.

    • I always have to laugh at takes like this. Charles’ suit is undoubtedly bespoke A&S, and Craig’s Tom Ford, say what you will about it being an American fashion brand, may be even higher quality in terms of construction! I tend to agree that lightweight fabrics do not wear as well as heavier ones, but your criticism is pretty harsh considering we’re not talking about off-the-peg suits from a high street brand. I am left to assume that your closet must be the sartorial equivalent of the Library at Alexandria and every time you step out there is not a wrinkle to be had!

  10. Now this is what I’ve been looking forward to seeing. SPECTRE improved the fit of Craig’s suits over Skyfall and it seems as if Bond 25 is moving yet another step in the right direction. I hope this to be true and look forward to seeing more.
    With regard to HRH’s habit of keeping his left hand in his jacket pocket, it’s long been rumored that he, like his grandfather George VI, is naturally left-handed but was taught to use his right hand, so he may have developed this habit as a way of reminding himself which hand to use.
    Prince William is also a noted lefty.

  11. Thanks, Matt,
    Even I have to agree on the jacket’s cut improvement. Why ruin it with a tie clip is a mystery to me….
    It still has the ‘triangle of shame’, a.k.a the one that leaves shirt+tie visible above the waist line.
    As for the lower part, well…. something is still ‘rotten in the kingdom of designers’, which makes me long for the cut of Moore’s trousers in the Persuaders, for instance.
    Also: why is Craig wearing shoes that always look too long, and whose (over)size is emphasised (no pun intended) by the mostly too narrow trousers ?

    As for Charles, I like the suit, its colour, fabric and cut. It is well enough cut in that it allows enough material not being displaced by his ‘signature’ left-hand-in-the-pocket.

    Bond’s style – save for the tab collar (not a fan) and the tie clip () are a welcome contrast of sobriety with the Prince’s too crowded style : double-stripes, too colourful and bold tie pattern, not matching the rest, and if that were not enough, a very bold handkerchief (colour, pattern and folding style) and a flower…
    One has to know / learn to draw a line, I gather.
    Aristocracy and royalty should not synonymous with grey, monolithic, conformist, joyless boredom, but to me all this is too much flamboyance.
    It makes me think of Fleming’s depiction of the Fabergé expert (Fanning?) in the ‘Property of a Lady’
    Thanks again, Matt.

    • These shoes have a long last. Crockett & Jones have some elongated lasts that makes the shoes look bigger. One time when I wore the Tetbury someone was commented at how large my shoes looked. The length is only slightly longer than most of my other shoes, and I sized down in the Tetbury. Narrow trousers make the shoes look longer as well.

    • Moore gets a lot of criticism online for his flared 1970s trousers, but as far as fashion fads go, I personally think flared trousers were a lot nicer than the ‘triangle of shame’ (as you put it) that is currently fashionable.

      • They certainly were. I always laugh when I hear the 70’s dismissed as “the decade style forgot”. Wrong on many levels and NO DECADE has a monopoly on this

      • Agreed with David. There’s good and bad in every decade, style wise. That said, it was easier to find clothes that fit me in the 2000s…

  12. Sure, I like long lasts myself. But ‘there are long lasts and long lasts’, to mimic Vesper’s quote about dinner jackets.
    Now, all is a question of proportions.
    At the beginning of Quantum of Solace, there is a close up of Craig’s shoes, and it is there that I saw the disproportionate aspect of them.
    Something is not all right, and the tip of the shoes tends to be tilting up, ski-wise, and inexorably prompts my imagination towards Moore’s disguise in Octopussy. And I am not referring to the gorilla 😉

  13. I have not been a fan of the Craig films and have ordinarily despised the look/fit of his suits. But I have to admit this looks pretty damn good. I like the new direction.

  14. From the recent pictures, from
    Sunday’s shooting, it looks a lot like a double Windsor knot, what is your educated guess on this matter?

  15. Recent closeups indicate he’s wearing a new version of an Omega Seamaster on a *shudder* milanese mesh strap.

  16. The tie bar or the tabbed collar are fine on their own own, but put together they look a bit messy, and too fussy for Bond – especially with the Windsor knot.

  17. Hello, Mr Spaiser 🙂

    As you so aptly mention, the fit of the suit is visibly improved, such as in terms of its length and the width of the shoulders. However, do you not feel that the jacket seems to have again been cut too closely. One can yet see it stretching at his waist, albeit to a lesser degree compared to Skyfall or Spectre.

    Is such a cut acceptable? I feel it would have been so much better had he favored the Tom Ford ‘Regency’ cut as he did in Quantum of Solace. Well, to each his own…!

    • Yes, this suit is still a bit too tight. As these suits are made for him, the model is not the problem, only the fit. He could still wear the Regency made to the same size as this suit.

    • Rather interesting to see Daniel Craig’s Glen Urquhart-patterned suit, ‘fashionably’ tight, contrasted with Prince Charles’ full-cut A&S bespoke pinstripe. Though Charles’ suit is classically proportioned, next to Craig’s suit he could look positively baggy to the untrained eye (not that I’m ‘trained’ at all! – just an enthusiastic amateur!) As Mr. Spaiser observes, the Tom Ford O’Connor is still too tight on Craig. Charles is basically 99.99% flawless; though I concede it’s a matter of taste if the creases resulting from a full-cut are aesthetically optimal.

  18. I wonder how this website would be if Benz and Bond had the same tailor…
    Now that is a reason to die…

    • He never should have been Bond. However he is the peoples Bond. I’m glad this is his last one. He should have left after QOS. I believed it then, I believe it now

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