We have our first look at Daniel Craig’s tailored style from the still-untitled Bond 25, and there are few surprises. Prince Charles paid a visit to the Bond 25 sets at Pinewood Studios on the 20th of June, and the press came with him to take many photos of the occasion. For this occasion Daniel Craig is dressed in character as James Bond in a black and white Glen Urquhart check suit.Embed from Getty Images
Bond 25 has a new costume designer, an American named Suttirat Anne Larlarb. Larlarb is a frequent collaborator of Bond 25’s original director Danny Boyle and was hired for Bond 25 when he still was to helm the film, and she stayed on with the production after Boyle’s departure. Tom Ford, the suit brand from all of Daniel Craig’s Bond films except Casino Royale, has returned for Bond 25 and many styles from Skyfall and Spectre return for this film. Though Jany Temime, the costumer designer from the previous two Bond films, did not return for Bond 25, many of the styles that she established for Bond are still present. This possibly signifies that Daniel Craig made many of the tailored wardrobe choices for his previous two Bond films since he is still dressing the same without Temime. Neither Larlarb nor the film’s stylish director Cary Joji Fukunaga have put their stamp on this outfit.Embed from Getty Images
This consistency in the tailored style is a welcome change for Craig’s Bond, who wore three different tailoring styles designed by three different costume designers throughout his first three Bond films. Daniel Craig is now on his fifth Bond films, and it is not the time to reinvent his style again. If Larlarb had any choice in the matter of Bond’s tailored clothing (this outfit may have all been Craig’s doing), she made the responsible choice not to give Craig yet another new look.
The suit is made of a black and white Glen Urquhart check reminiscent of Sean Connery’s first checked suit in From Russia with Love. This is similar to the glen check suit that Craig wears at the ‘New Digs’ in Skyfall but now it is in the classic high-contrast combination and in a slightly larger scale. It looks like that this outfit may be featured in a scene at M’s office, and after Skyfall and GoldenEye this is only the third time that Bond wears a checked suit to the office. A high-contrast check like this is rather sporty for the office, but we do not yet know the context of Bond’s visit.
Tom Ford calls this pattern a “Prince of Wales” check, which is a popular name for this type of check whether or not is has an overcheck. Was is just a coincidence that Daniel Craig wore this suit for the Prince of Wales’ visit to the set? The Prince of Wales himself wore a blue pinstripe suit for the occasion.Embed from Getty Images
Craig’s suit is the same as his Tom Ford O’Connor suits from Spectre with a button two, show one jacket fastening, also called a “three-roll-two” because it has three buttons but the lapel rolls to the second button like on a button two suit. Two buttons is now by far the predominant style today, but someone still appreciates the elegant style featured here. And while Tom Ford’s style still focuses on jackets with peaked lapels, this suit still has the usual notched lapels. The lapels are moderately narrow, just like in Spectre.
The jacket’s shoulders are lightly structured and have roped sleeve heads. The breast pocket is Tom Ford’s usual curved ‘barchetta’ shape, and the hip pockets are gently slanted with flaps. The cuffs have four buttons with only three fastened, and the last buttonhole is longer than the others. There is a single vent in the rear of the jacket. The trousers have a mid rise, flat front, slide-buckle side adjusters, narrow straight legs and turn-ups. The suit has black buttons to match the black in the Glen Urquhart check.
The fit of the jacket from these photos is difficult to judge because Craig is always posing with his hands behind his back. But there are clearly many improvements in the fit since Spectre. The shoulders look wide enough, the jacket length covers his buttocks, the sleeves can drape cleanly and comfortably and the trousers are not clinging to his legs. The trousers look slightly too long (which could be the result of sagging) and the jacket’s hips sometimes look too tight. But this suit does not appear to be bursting at the seams, and the suit does not look inappropriate on a more mature Bond. The suit’s fit is not perfect, but it is a tremendous improvement over the suits in Skyfall and Spectre.
The Tom Ford shirt is white with the tab collar from Skyfall and the “Dr No” cocktail cuffs from Spectre. Though I think the tab collar is too fussy for Bond, the cocktail cuffs’ return is welcome. The shirt has a placket front. Craig wears a folded white pocket square that matches the shirt.Embed from Getty Images
The navy repp tie from Spectre has also returned, and it appears to be the same 7.5 cm width. This one look like it is the same shade as the tie from Q’s lab in Spectre. For the first time since Goldfinger we see Bond wearing a tie clip. This is a silver tie clip, and he wears it at the same height as his pocket square. The tie clip (also known as a tie bar or tie clasp) is placed at the modern height, which is slightly higher than where it was usually placed during its heyday in the 1960s. Here it competes with the pocket square, a problem that could be solved be wearing the tie bar slightly lower.
When I wrote my article on James Bond and the tie clip at the beginning of this year, I did not expect it to appear in Bond 25 despite its current resurgent in popularity. James Bond only wore a tie clip once before: with his brown barleycorn tweed hacking jacket in Goldfinger. It is a rather fussy detail for Bond, but it goes along with the mid-century American look of the tab collar.
The black Crockett & Jones Highbury three-eyelet derby shoes from Skyfall return. Despite black shoes having become unfashionable in the last few years, it is a relief to see that Bond is still wearing them in a London business setting, where brown shoes will not do, especially not for a traditional military man like Bond.