In the 1980s, the double-breasted suit with four buttons and only one to button came into prominence around the world. The buttons of this style are in a ‘keystone’ layout with only the bottom functioning. This is a continental style that was rarely seen in England but had been popular for many years in France and Italy. In Octopussy Roger Moore wears a navy blue suit in this style for the scenes in Germany, and though we don’t see much of the suit in the film this outfit can be seen in many promotional photographs.
Typically this style was made with jetted pockets and no vents but Bond’s suit is Anglicised with flapped pockets and double vents. There are threebuttons on the cuffs. The peak lapels on this suit are fairly narrow for a double-breasted suit, and both lapels have a buttonhole. The cut overall has soft shoulders and a full chest. The suit trousers have a plain front, straight legs and plain bottoms.
The white and light blue hairline stripe shirt has a spread collar and single-button rounded cuffs. The tie is navy with white polka dots and tied in a four-in-hand knot. Bond wears black socks and black slip-on shoes.
In the following scenes Bond removes his suit coat and tie and replaces it with an Octopussy Circus jacket. Later he changes the jacket and shirt out for the red shirt and black vest worn by Mischka. But throughout this he still wears the navy blue suit trousers, black socks and slip-ons.
This has to be one of the better 4×1 double breasted suits of the 1980’s, Doug Hayward never went to extremes and he knew the Bond films would last, he made a point to keep things as classic as possible. The 4×1 and 6×1 double breasted suits are making a comeback through movie stars like Robert Downey Jr. and Michael Keaton seen recently wearing Canali and Brioni double breasted suits in both styles. Through with a higher button stance then the 1980’s versions.
I agree. It’s a beautiful-looking suit, from what little we see of it in the film.