Saunders rudely greets James Bond, first telling him that he’s late and then saying that he’s overdressed. “This is a mission, not a fancy dress ball”, says Saunders. To a classical music concert in The Living Daylights, Bond wears a black shawl-collar dinner jacket with a button front one, no vent, jetted pockets and four-button cuffs. Though the shoulders are a little wide, the dinner jacket fits well through the body. The collar is noticeably wider than the more familiar shawl-collar dinner jackets Bond wore in the 1960s. The trousers have double reverse pleats and a black silk stripe down the sides, and they are held up by white clip-on braces. Proper braces button in and do not clip-on, and Bond isn’t wearing a cummerbund, which at least would hide the clips.
But Bond also shows that he is properly dressed for his mission when he turns up the collar and closes it with a Velcro strap, better to hide himself in the dark. Underneath the dinner jacket he wears a white dress shirt with narrow pleats, mother of pearl buttons, a spread collar and double cuffs. He wears a well-tied black satin silk thistle-shaped bow tie.