The Ulster Coat in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service

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Bond, as Sir Hilary Bray, keeps warm outdoors on Christmas wearing an Ulster and tweed trilby, appropriate country clothes. The Ulster coat may be mistaken for an inverness cape, which does not have sleeves. Bond’s coat and hat are copies made of those hanging on the rack in Sir Hilary’s office at the College of Arms. This Ulster is the old Victorian and Edwardian style: single-breasted with a cape attached. The knee-length coat is made in a rust brown tweed with natural shoulders, a Prussian collar, straight jetted pockets and set-in sleeves with a single-button closure.

Along with the coat Bond wears a beige scarf, light olive leather gloves, and a brown tweed trilby. The trilby has a subtle plaid pattern in brown tones with a red overcheck, with a ribbon in the same material. Bond wears a tweed suit under the Ulster, which will be covered later.

10 COMMENTS

  1. Happy Christmas Matt. Good post for the season. OHMSS was perhaps the most special Bond film for so many reasons and just one of these was the flavour of a Swiss Christmastime it portrayed.

    All the best for 2012.

  2. I recently watched the French spoof spy film OSS117: Cairo, Nest of Spies. Jean Dujardin’s suits were tremendous. I’d be interested to know what you thought.

  3. Is not the overcoat depicted an Inverness, not an Ulster? What is usually called an Ulster is double-breasted and belted, I understand.

    • There are two different types of Ulster coats. This one is the original style from the Victorian era that has a cape. This coat evolved into the double-breasted coat you’re thinking of, though it does not have a belt. The Inverness cape does not have sleeves and has separate capes for each arm, though it originated as the same garment as the Ulster coat that George Lazenby wears.

  4. Fantastic coat! I’m figuring the only real way to acquire a garment like this, or close to it, would be to either attend some sort of vintage clothing auction or try to find a suitable (read: capable!) tailor in order to make one. Your thoughts?

    • An established English tailor would be best to make one of these. Italian and Hong Kong tailors wouldn’t have much experience in this style, mostly in making the cape. The coat itself shouldn’t be that difficult, but be sure to make it in a suitably heavy cloth. If you’ve ever worn a vintage overcoat you’d have a good idea of how heavy the cloth should be.

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