The Fancy Grey Rope Stripe Suit in Skyfall

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The nicest part of every Tom Ford suit in Skyfall is the suiting. The proper use of the term “suiting” is to describe the cloth a suit is made from; it’s not another word for a suit or multiple suits, like the way some brands have recently started using the term to sound more sophisticated (they don’t!). Tom Ford puts far more importance on the quality of his suiting than most fashion designers do. This suiting from Skyfall looks like a basic charcoal with a narrow-spaced grey rope stripe, but it’s a little fancier than that. The cloth is twill-woven, except on either side of each rope stripe there is a plain-woven section framing the stripe. It adds a subtle dimension to the cloth whilst still keeping it classic.

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The cut and style of this suit is the same as the other suits in the film. The fit is tight and short, with narrow, straight shoulders. The jacket buttons three and the narrow lapels roll at the top button, though the tight fit in the chest pulls it open down to the fastened middle button. It is not a three-roll-two like the Quantum of Solace suits. The buttons are placed lower than on most current suits, which is both bad and good. The bad part is that it emphasises how short the jacket is, and the buttons look very low on the jacket. But the good part is that the middle button fastens exactly where it should: at the waist. The button at the waist means that not as much shirt can show above the trousers as on the typical “slim fit” suit, and it helps the jacket to move better with the body. A lower button stance also makes the chest look stronger, which is why a high button stance is rarely a good thing. The flapped hip pockets are on a shallow slant, and the cuffs have three buttons with last one left open. There is a single vent at the rear. The suit trousers have a flat front and are cut with a low rise and narrow leg, and they have a short hem with turn-ups. The trousers have side adjusters with slide buckles and an extended waistband with hook closure.

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Bond’s pale blue poplin shirt—also made by Tom Ford—has a soft tab collar, a placket down the front and double cuffs. A pale blue cotton handkerchief folded in the pocket matches the shirt. The tie is made in the same weave as the black and silver tie worn with the pick-and-pick suit earlier in the film. This one is a pattern of light blue-grey and charcoal. The shoes are the black Crockett & Jones Highbury model, a 3-eyelet derby with Dainite rubber studded soles. The Dainite soles are useful in the scenes where this suit is worn because they provide the extra needed traction over traditional leather soles.

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34 COMMENTS

  1. Interesting that there’s no prole gap in any of the pictures despite the suit being the exact same cut as the Glen Plaid. Perhaps it was an effect of the way he was standing in different shots?

    Fantastic suit, and I was fortunate enough to luck into an almost identical one prior to SF coming out. Mine is a slightly lighter grey and has blue stripes instead of grey, which limits me to wearing only varying shades of blue shirts with it (white or grey just don’t look right). The cut is pretty much exactly the same including the single vent (I prefer double). I had originally purchased it as an alternate to my darker suits as I work in the financial district and all the navy blue can get a little repetitive.I thought that I wouldn’t wear it very much, but to my surprise I received very enthusiastic compliments every time I wore it and now it’s my second most worn suit.

    To this day I still get a lot of compliments on it when I meet new people. I wonder if it’s because of the style or because it’s a less common colour/pattern and it stands out from the crowd?

    • In some shots the suit collar isn’t hugging the shirt collar. There are fit problems in the upper back, and there is no excuse for that since these suits are made for Craig.

    • I would say the compliments are a result of both factors. On one hand, the color and fabric are excellent and deserve to be recognized. On the other hand, this style of suit, love it or hate it, has entered into the mainstream. This is what people have been conditioned to believe is good tailoring. So I think that plays into the compliments that you get as well as the color/fabric.

  2. The cloths used for the Skyfall suits really are beautiful and Temime does a great job of coordinating colours. I’m also a big fan of the Crockett & Jones shoes, excellent choice for Bond.
    I’m sure by now frequent readers know where I stand on the fit of the Skyfall suits so there’s no need for me to even go there.

    • I am also quite find of the Crockett & Jones shoes–I would love to own a pair. I also think the Dainite sole is a good choice for Bond given that he is a man of action.

  3. A man of action like Bond can wear tight coats and slim trousers?
    Can a man move nimbly compressed in that way?
    Are not better classic widths like those of Sinclair?

    • Such a tight suit is not ideal, but it doesn’t need to be as full-cut as Sinclair’s suits either. The suit shouldn’t bind when moving like this suit does. One of the most important things, whether the suit is cut tight or full, is that the armholes and crotch need to be as high as possible to allow the most movement from the arms and legs, respectively.

  4. So Bond believes in showing a bit of sock now ehh? I believe Bond also has working cuffs on his jacket sleeves right? I also like the matching pale blue shirt and pocket square…

    • Yes, the old American look of short trousers. The problem with narrow trouser legs is they can’t cover so much of the shoe. When narrow trouser legs were last popular in the 1960s, Chelsea boots were worn with them to prevent sock from showing. Bond’s suits always having working cuff buttons, but as I said here, he leaves the last one open.

      • Narrow leg or not, it would have been advantageous to put a mild guardsman cut on it to ease the tackiness.

        -Kurt

      • What exactly is a guardman cut, please ? I remember Matt talked about a guardman slant too in an article about a Brioni tweed suit. Is it a particular way to finish the trouser hem without turn-ups ?

        Thanks in advance.

      • A guardsman slant is when the back of the hem is angled back so it’s lower in the back than in the front. It allows more of the shoe to be covered without a sloppy break. Turn-ups can’t be slanted very much.

  5. I am a huge fan of your blog. Please keep up the good work. So much detail to see in every outfit Commander Bond has worn.

  6. It’s very interesting to see how much the pattern on the tie pops out in these pictures. I’ve seen a couple of pictures of the (allegedly) same tie taken in stores and it looks very flat; both the pattern and the background seem a purple-ish grey. I can’t remember noticing this when watching the film.

    On a side note, I have great difficulty finding ties to match my suits. I can find patterns that I like, but getting the greys and navy blues in my ties to match the greys and navy blues in my suit – nearly impossible. Do others have this problem or am I being too OCD about matching shades and tones of colours?

    • For what it’s worth, my advice would be to look for ties that complement or contrast with a suit’s colour, rather than go for an exact match. This is a matter of taste, of course.

    • The tie is definitely not flat. I’ve seen it look much different in different pictures.

      An exact match is difficult. I have four different navy grenadine ties and they cover most shades of navy. An exact match isn’t necessary if the tie isn’t solid. The light blue in the tie is close to the shirt’s blue, and the ground of the tie is close to the suit.

  7. Nicely leaving aside the ongoing debate on Skyfall/Tom Ford/Daniel Craig/Jany Temime, excellent post Matt!

    I think this suit’s cloth is beautiful, and perfect for the movie’s scenes, in which James Bond is cast as the ultimate British throwback protector of the realm (in this case, M), going “back in time.”

  8. I think the suiting was perfect, especially due to the fact that it followed some of the more modern trends, and stayed away from trying to hard to keep some of the old appearances up. The 3 button 2 and single vent are odd choices to me but I guess they can be seen as the classic look, with Craigs height I would have thought they would stick with 2 buttons but by cutting the jacket shorter they eliminated that problem.

      • He only buttons the middle though, it does look like it rolls of the top but I am not 100% sure

      • Pierce Brosnan also only buttoned the middle button on his button-three suits, but they still roll to the top button. See the charcoal suit in The World is Not Enough. The Skyfall suits are done exactly the same way. The difference with the Skyfall suits is that the chest is too small so it pulls the jacket open. You can see that the shape of the lapel starts at the top button. Compare that with Quantum of Solace, where the lapel actually rolls to the middle button. There’s a difference in cut and tailoring. The way you can tell is if you can see the top button when the suit is unbuttoned. And in the Skyfall suits the top button is visible when the suit is unbuttoned.

      • Looking at the picture closer I can see the top button better than the first time I glanced at it, and yes Matt, the Quantum suit was most certainly different as I can see the button hole for the top button that is clearly present on the upper part of the lapel where it is rolled/pressed over, the suits are most certainly different!

  9. Matt, any chance to have a close-up picture of this suiting which, as you describe it, is quite particular ? I must confess I don’t see much of it…
    I have never understood the interest of closely-spaced stripes. If it’s a pinstripe one will barely notice that the suit is a striped one. And if it’s a rope stripe it looks like a pinstriped suit from a distance, IMHO. When the large stripes are more spaced apart, like on some Hayward suits (in Octopussy, the auction scene), it looks much better. If you dons a rope stripe suit, you might as well not “hide” its suiting…

    By the way Matt, you tagged this in the pinstripe section.

    • The close-up pictures of the cloth I’ve found on another website and I don’t want to post someone else’s photo.

      I tag rope stripes and chalk stripes under pinstripes.

      • Hi there,

        I love the fabric of this suit (It’s the same suit of Bond next to the DB5 in Scotland?), but I get conflicting information on its description. Is it a narrow charcoal pinstripe, a narrow charcoal rope stripe, a charcoal blue serge with narrow light blue rope stripe?

        I doubt I will be able to find an exact match, but one very close would be nice when telling my tailor the material I want to use and knowing an accurate description will help no end.

      • As I wrote in the article, it’s charcoal with a grey rope stripe. The description I give is accurate. It’s the same suit as in the picture in Scotland, as well as in the photo here.

  10. Hi, Matt.

    Can you provide a closeup of the fabric for this suit? I wanna see how the plain-woven section that’s framing the stripes look like.

    Thanks!

  11. Hi Matt,
    Do you know the lapel width and vent length? The lapels seem noticably narrower than on the Quantum suits, and with the overall length of the jacket being about an inch shorter, I assume that the vent is at least that much shorter compared to the Tom Fords in Quantum.

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