The Cheviot Tweed Windowpane Suit in The World Is Not Enough

14
SHARE

Whilst in Scotland in The World is Not Enough, Bond wears a Cheviot tweed suit made by Brioni. This suit is charcoal (probably in a black and grey birdseye weave) with a blue windowpane, city colours on a country suit that work quite well. The suit coat has Brioni’s typical straight shoulder line, but the chest was cut with some drape unlike the usual clean-chested Brioni. The button three front has a low button stance and the lapels roll gently over the top button. The suit coat has double vents and four buttons on the cuffs, plus slanted pockets with a ticket pocket complete the English country look. Bond wears his darted front trousers with a belt. These trousers appear to have plain bottoms hemmed with a guardsman slant. The heavier weight may explain the lack of Brosnan’s usual turn-ups.

Bond wears a white shirt from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar and double cuffs. The tie is wool knit tie in black, since he just came from a funeral. Bond’s shoes are black Church’s Presley monks. Overall the outfit is a bit informal for a funeral, though the dark city colours and black shoes help. The overcoat Bond wears over this suit will be covered later.

14 COMMENTS

  1. Hello, my name is Peter Cirino(piero.cirino@alice.it) and an Italian journalist. Recently, a magazine, I did a search on the suit worn by Brosnan in the 007 and made ​​by Brioni.
    I follow with attention and curiosity this blog and I appreciate their efforts. About this suit, I streams that the fabric is hopsack, apparently similar to the Cheviot tweeds. It 'a widowpane carbon, but the fabric is hopsack. I wish you good work and hope to be liked.

  2. I've been looking forward to you covering this one. I love Brosnan's Brioni suits, this is a nice one to look at as we enter into the colder months.
    A lot of fans criticize Brosnan for being a bit of a dandy, but I think that his (and of course Hemming's) sense of style gives us a Bond that's a traditionalist with a military background and an acute eye for timeless fashion with only the slightest concessions to the trends of the day.
    The danger is of course is that he often stands out as the best-dressed man in the room, which may not be the greatest asset in spying, but it does look excellent for us viewers.

  3. The windowpane suit might not be strictly formal for a funeral setting, but at least the designers didn't foist another of those horrible patterned ties on Brosnan.

  4. Peter, there was a newspaper article written on the clothes of The World Is Not Enough that states the fabric is indeed Cheviot tweed, and the diagonal wales on screen would suggest a twill weave, not hopsack. Where did you find it to be hopsack? Nevertheless, it can still be Cheviot tweed, whether it's a twill weave or hopsack weave. Cheviot tweed describes the wool, though it is typically woven in twill and herringbone weaves.

  5. Oh, how I wanted a suit like this when I saw this film in high school. I remember searching the vintage stores on Melrose Ave, hoping to find a windowpane suit.

  6. Peter, I looked at the close-ups of the suit again and now I can kind of make out the hopsack weave. The diagonal lines might just be an illusion. Thanks for the information.

  7. Happy to check out was good. There are other suits Brosnan on which I can add details and, if you can help, I will be happy to do so.How do I create an account, without appearing as anonymous? All the best, Piero.

  8. Very nice. After the tie in the pre-credits sequence for TWINE, I think Brosnan's wardrobe calms down for his last two films.

  9. I wondered about the necktie pierce wears with this suit. I noticed you say its a wool knit necktie and it appears to be somewhat thicker than a grenadine. When I called Turnbull and Asser they were trying to be tell me that he wore a black grenadine tie, but I have grenadine neckties from Turnbull and asser and they are certainly not this thick. Any idea where the neck tie came from?

    • It is not a grenadine and not silk. You’re right that it’s a very thick tie. I would have guessed the tie is from Turnbull & Asser, and no matter what they tell you it still may be. You’ll need to talk to someone who has a very clear memory of what they sold in the late 90s. It’s either wool or cashmere, and it is ribbed like the cuffs on a jumper. That’s why I believe it’s a knitted tie.

LEAVE A REPLY

Do the arithmetic * Time limit is exhausted. Please reload CAPTCHA.