For country pursuits there is nothing better than a tweed hacking jacket. James Bond’s hacking jacket from Goldfinger is made up in a brown barleycorn tweed woven in a special weave. The barleycorn weave is a variation on the hopsack weave, which forms a pattern of upward-pointing arrows. Traditionally cut with slanted hacking pockets, a ticket pocket and a long single vent, the hacking jacket was originally designed for horseback riding. The button two hacking jacket in Goldfinger is made by Anthony Sinclair in Sean Connery’s usual style with narrow lapels, a low button stance, soft shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a slightly draped chest and a gently suppressed waist.
Bond wears his hacking jacket with narrow-cut, darted-front, fawn wool cavalry twill trousers with frogmouth pockets and plain hemmed bottoms. Cavalry twill is a typically heavy cloth that is characterised by its unique double rib. Though the trousers are just one shade lighter than his jacket, the smooth texture of the trousers significantly contrasts the rough tweed texture of the jacket, making them an excellent pair.
On his feet is the quintessential country footwear: brown two-eyelet suede shoes. These are derby shoes, very similar to chukka boots in a style John Lobb Ltd. calls “hilo” shoes. They look just like chukka boots in the front, but they are cut lower like derby shoes. In essence, they are chukka shoes. The shoes have rubber soles.
The same jacket and trousers appear again in Thunderball but with a different shirt and tie. In Goldfinger Bond wears an ecru shirt that has faint, broken grey stripes and is made with a spread collar, front placket and double cuffs. Frank Foster possibly made the shirt. The tie in Goldfinger is a light brown knit tie. In Thunderball Bond switches the striped shirt out for a solid ecru shirt from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie in Thunderball is a dark brown grenadine tie from Turnbull & Asser.
Before Sean Connery wore the hacking jacket and cavalry twill trousers as James Bond, he wore it in Woman of Straw, appearing in a total of three films.