The Navy Small Herringbone Suit in Skyfall

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Daniel Craig’s Tom Ford suit in the final scene of Skyfall is dark navy in a small herringbone, or mini bone, weave. The small herringbone weaves gives the cloth a narrow self-stripe look whilst being one solid colour. Like the other three lounge suits in Skyfall, the jacket is a button three with straight, narrow shoulders, a single vent and gently sloped pockets. Craig leaves the last button open on his button three cuffs. Like all of the suits in Skyfall, the jacket is short and doesn’t completely cover his buttocks, and the chest is tight, causing it to pull open where it isn’t designed to. Though such a fit is currently fashionable, until a few years ago these were marks of a poor fit. The collar on this suit jacket does not hug the shirt collar, which is another mark of a poor fit.

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Click the photo to enlarge and look for the pick stitching on the edge of the lapels.

Though it’s on all of the suits in Skyfall—and most of the suits in the entire James Bond series—the pick stitching along the edge of the lapels and on the pockets is especially visible on this suit. It’s more visible on this suit because the cloth is solid and lightweight. The pick stitch—also called a prick stitch—is a handmade running stitch along the edges that, when executed well, should be almost invisible. It keeps the edge firm and prevents it from puffing up. To be more fashionable, some tailors use a heavier or contrasting thread to make it more noticeable.

Craig wears a light blue shirt with a tab collar, front placket and double cuffs. It looks like grey because of the warm lighting that desaturates the blues and gives the scene an older feel. His folded cotton pocket handkerchief matches the shirt. His tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot, is in a small basket-weave pattern of either mid grey and black or mid grey and dark navy. The latter would make more sense with the outfit overall, but it’s difficult to tell.

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38 COMMENTS

    • I agree – this picture is a study in contrast between classic and fashionable, and classic wins hands down!

  1. Fantastic suit, and I never even noticed that it was herringbone. The second time that I saw Skyfall in the theatre I was trying to drink in all of the fashion details because Blu-ray has only 1/4 the clarity and definition of projected film. But I kept getting sucked into the story and acting…

    I quite like the grey shirt with this suit, and I’ve started to wear one with one of my navy suits as well. It’s a good look, and not altogether common based on the reaction that I get. And I do love a basketweave tie and the added “depth” that it gives.

  2. Nice colors here. I have to admit that I did not identify this shirt as grey, even after viewing the BluRay. It’s such an unusual choice for Bond that I didn’t really consider it.

    Now that you’ve covered all of Bond’s Skyfall suits, I’ll offer my final opinion before leaving the topic happily behind.

    I think Temime did a nice job on Mallory, and Tanner looked good as well. Additionally, Bond’s shirts and ties were excellent and the fabrics used to make the suits were also great. But given the poor fit on each of Bond’s suits, I am hoping Temime is not asked back for Bond 24. I’m neutral on Tom Ford. He’s at a 50% success rate, so perhaps he should get one more go.

    I know some will disagree with this assessment, but I think it’s a fair one. Ideally, James Bond’s suits should not be controversial. I think that’s something the next costume designer should strive for.

      • I disagree. Granted that the fabrics are very nice, but that does not excuse the rest. Bond should not wear a tab collar. If all the mistakes made by Temime is the price we have to pay, I would rather have Frogley’s shirting.

      • I agree with you. I meant to say that Frogley did the best with the cuts and styles for Daniel Craig. Fit should always come first, so naturally, Frogley did a better job.

  3. Matt, regarding the fit, I noticed you said the shoulders are narrow. Are the shoulders too small for him? Would it look better if the shoulders were wider?

      • You mean Craig’s deltoids (the deltoids being the round shoulder muscles where the upper arm connects to the torso)? The biceps is a particular muscle on the front of the upper arm below the deltoids.

  4. You have an excellent eye, as I thought the shirt was blue. I don’t envy the effort involved in scrutinizing Blu-Ray to determine white from ecru and blues from grays etc.

    • I thought it was blue at first, but after a closer look I’ve determined that it’s definitely grey. Telling light creams from white can be very difficult if there’s no white to compare it to.

  5. I know the suits are overly slim but Tom Ford’s suiting, by its actual definition, is excellent. He picks such discreet patterns that look plain until you get close, it really compliments Daniel Craig.

  6. I think it’s an intersesting look, poor fit aside. The color scheme is sober and rather original. I always thought the shirt was white and the suit black when I saw it in the theater.
    I don’t like the habit of matching the handkerchief with the shirt in Skyfall though, it always make the ensemble look a bit flat in the end. Especially here.

    • Much like a few others, I think we really have to put the fit issue to bed. We also have to realize that the cut used in “Skyfall” represents less tha 10% of any buy for Tom Ford and that it isn’t really a formal example/indication of what Tom Ford as a brand is.

      For those who say that the suits from Skyfall are too fashion forward and complain that this is not a suit that is indicative of a undercover agent, I submit then why should Bond drive an Aston Martin? The most inconspicuous car in history.

      Does the suit fit to what most of us would classify as standard. No. Would I wear my suit like that? No. But we are lucky that they didn’t go the Thom Browne route and have the suit 3 sizes too small. The fabric is beautiful, I remember getting to work with that fabric and being amazed at the texture even through the swatch.

  7. Anyone unhappy that these Skyfall suits “don’t fit” Daniel Craig should see me trying to wear £80 off-the-shelf jackets from Burton (even these I can’t afford…). They’d cry.

    I think to the average viewer, even the average suit wearer, the wardrobe in this film fits Craig beautifully. I only wish I could look half that good/confident in one instead of suddenly turning in to Prince Charles, suddenly not knowing what to do with my hands and or being able to relax, yet alone chat up Naomie Harris.

    Am I alone in thinking wearing a suit or dinner suit is 50% tailoring and 50% confidence? I just know that after 39 years of not wearing a shirt and tie to work or out with friends that if I suddenly did, my colleagues would assume I was going for a new job. Or to a funeral. And my self consciousness would instantly make even the best fitting suit shrink on my frame like a straight jacket as if I’d just showered in it…

    • The colour has a big say in what look you’re going for.
      A standard black suit is generally going to look rather job interview/funeral.

      I go for lighter greys, and I’d like browns and blues. I personally feel empowered in a suit, unless there are really obvious fit issues. I stand straighter and just feel better.

      Which makes me wonder why they make you feel this way? Do you need to be a bit more extravagant with the colours of fabric? A suit that fits even half decently shouldn’t leave you shuffling around on the spot awkwardly.

    • Regardless of whether or not one likes the style of Craig’s suits in Skyfall, one poster here summed it up perfectly IMHO: “Craig’s suits in Skyfall look exactly the way they are meant to”. (I’m paraphrasing).

      That doesn’t mean that everyone has to like them, but conversely it doesn’t mean that they are “wrong” if they aren’t the style that someone would wear themselves…

  8. I myself don’t like the ultra slim tailored look, by I think most suit coats on gentleman in decent shape could use a little more “fitting”. Ralph Fienes does look great, but you can’t tailor him the same way you tailor DC and his physique.

  9. I asked my girlfriend what colour this shirt was while watching the film and she said “duck egg blue.” For the record, I love this look, matching pocket square and tight fit aside. I’m personally a big fan of tab collars.

    • You need to isolate the shirt and so it’s not compared to the navy suit around it to get a better understanding of the colour. I looked pixel by pixel to see what the colours in this shirt are, and it varies between mostly warm greys with some blue greys.

      • Yes, it is supposed to be the same shirt, and it does look considerably more blue than grey in that scene. Compare Moneypenny’s dress in the two scenes and it looks like the same blue-grey. Yet Bond’s shirt looks a whole lot different. If Bond’s shirt was blue in the indoor scenes, the light shining on his shirt should make it appear blue and not a complete grey. It could possibly be a continuity error.

  10. Generally speaking I really like the cloths used for the Skyfall suits– this one, the glen plaid, or the sharkskin in a cut similar to what Craig wore in Quantum of Solace would be my ideal for a suit that’s both classic and tastefully modern.

  11. I like your website alot, but you`re wrong about the shirt color, it`s definetly blue.
    Temine said in a interview that she only used blue fabrics for the shirt´s besides the dinnershirt and you can also see it on the omega ad and the screenshoot that Mike provided.

  12. FYI – There is a rumor circulating that Daniel Craig has already been fitted by Tom Ford for his Bond 24 suits. I suppose time will tell whether this is a good thing…

    • I’ve heard about this, but there’s nothing for me to write about yet. I hope he has already bulked up for the role because Bond 24 isn’t supposed to start filming until October. A lot can change in his physique in that time. If they fitted him this early in the production for Skyfall, he certainly bulked up in that time before filming.

  13. After reading this and looking up the suit, a bit. I found and purchased this Tom Ford piece. It’s my nicest suit. Thanks for the article.

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