For Felix Leiter’s wedding in Licence to Kill, the wedding party wears morning dress. Presumably Felix rented the morning dress because it follows few conventions of morning dress; something better should be expected of Bond. After all, Bond wore an excellent example of morning dress in A View to a Kill only four years earlier. This morning coat is better cut than the suits in the film and isn’t a relic of the 1980’s. However, there are a few problems with fit: the collar stands away from the neck and the back just looks sloppy overall. It is properly cut with a single-button front that cuts away to the tails in the back. It includes a waist seam, proper of body coats. Other details include peak lapels, roped sleeve heads, a breast pocket—which not all morning coats have—and three buttons on each cuff. The buttons are grey plastic. However, there is one big problem with this morning coat: the colour. A morning coat that is part of a suit can be mid to light grey like Roger Moore’s morning suit is. But when it’s part of the more traditional and more formal morning dress, it should only be black or dark grey. The mid grey of Dalton’s morning coat isn’t formal enough to match the formality of the rest of the outfit. The choice of a mid grey coat may have to do with the sunny locale of Key West, but in that case a morning suit would have been a better choice.
The trousers are in the traditional striped pattern in black and grey. The not so traditional part comes in the double reverse-pleat cut. Early morning wear always had flat-front trousers, as that was the style at the time. In the early 20th century when men started wearing pleated trousers, the trousers had forward pleats, and that still remains the standard in English tailoring. Reverse pleats are more relaxed than forward pleats and are not as traditional on morning wear. The dove grey waistcoat has five buttons down the front, with all buttons fastened, and the shanked buttons are stainless steel. The waistcoat has two single-jetted pockets.
The shirt and dress cravat are even less traditional. The shirt has an attached wing collar, a fine-pleated bib and double cuffs. More appropriate since the 20th century is a spread or cutaway collar, though a wing collar is still acceptable. The collar should be detachable, especially a wing collar. With a turn-down collar the tie should be a four-in-hand, though the dress cravat is standard with a wing collar. Bond’s dress cravat has grey, black and white stripes. The problem with Bond’s cravat is that it is a clip-on (with a clasp in plain sight in the back) and not self-tied. Bond’s shoes are black cap-toe lace-ups. The outfit is completed with a light grey top hat and white carnation worn in the left lapel buttonhole.