Roger Moore was introduced as James Bond in Live and Let Die in 1973, a time when Bond’s clothing somewhat reflected the fashions of the period. The 1970s fashion influence can be seen in the slightly wider lapels, ties and pocket flaps, tall collars, deep vents, and flared trousers. Whilst Bond’s clothing in Live and Let Die (as well as in The Man With the Golden Gun made a year and a half later) takes cues from 1970s fashion trends, it’s quite tame compared to the villains’ wardrobes.
Today we’ll be focusing on the light grey tropical wool suit James Bond wears briefly on his arrival in San Monique. The suit’s grey is made up of yarns in different shades of grey, or grey and white. The suit is tailored by Roger Moore’s long-time tailor Cyril Castle, who like Sean Connery’s tailor Anthony Sinclair also worked on Conduit Street in Mayfair. Castle made Roger Moore’s suits for his television series The Saint and The Persuaders, as well as for other movies in the 1960s and 1970s. Prior to the Bond films Roger Moore wore his single-breasted suit jackets with a button three front but followed Connery’s Bond with a button two jacket. Like Connery’s suit jackets, Moore’s jackets have a somewhat low button stance, though the wider lapels on Moore’s jackets help the button stance appear to be not too low. The jacket is cut with soft shoulders and has a cleaner chest than Sean Connery’s suits. One thing easy to notice are the deep side vents on Roger Moore’s suit jackets that must be over 12 inches long. The jacket also has flapped, slanted pockets.
The most unique part of the jacket is the sleeve cuff (pictured below). It has what might be called a link button. The end of the cuff is similar to a linked shirt cuff where the ends kiss rather than overlap like on a barrel cuff. There is a button seen on either side of the cuff, and it looks like cuff links. The ends of the sleeves are cut with a flare, which harmonises nicely with the slight flare of the trouser legs. The trousers have a darted front with three-button side adjusters, two rear pockets, no side pockets and large coin pockets on both sides of the trousers accessed from just below the waistband.
The shirt is cream with a moderate spread collar, a hidden-button fly placket stitched close to the centre and two-button cocktail cuffs, made by Frank Foster, and the tie is plain burgundy, tied in a four-in-hand knot with a dimple.