Chantilly in northern France isn’t the most appropriate place for an ivory dinner jacket, even in summertime. This scene takes place in late June, not long after the Royal Ascot, which means the sunset is very late. At the summer solstice, the sun sets at 9:59 pm, meaning there is plenty of daylight at 6 pm when this event starts. Bond is not wearing his dinner jacket in the afternoon, though it was likely filmed then.
The untraditional setting is accompanied by two untraditional elements of James Bond’s ivory dinner jacket, made by Douglas Hayward. The most noticeable of these elements is the notch lapels, as opposed to the more traditional shawl collar or peak lapels on a dinner jacket. The lapels here differ in shape from Douglas Hayward’s signature notch lapels, which are cut straight across the top. The lapels have a concave curves along the top and a steeper gorge. The other untraditional part of this dinner jacket is beige horn buttons, as opposed to ordinary mother of pearl buttons or cloth-covered buttons. But since this dinner jacket is made of linen, the horn buttons and notch lapels make it possibly for this dinner jacket to double as a sports coat.
Otherwise, this is primarily an ivory dinner jacket, with its button one front and jetted pockets. It also has four-button cuffs—as opposed to the usual three buttons that Douglas Hayward uses—and double vents. The shoulders are soft on the natural shoulder line and have roped sleeve heads. The cut is slightly draped with a nipped waist. The extra drape on this jacket that usually isn’t present on Hayward jackets is probably because linen doesn’t have as much give as wool has and thus needs extra room for movement.
The Douglas Hayward straight-leg trousers are black with a satin stripe down each leg, and the black bow tie is in matching satin silk. Bond’s white dress shirt made by Frank Foster has a spread collar, double cuffs, a pleated front and mother of pearl buttons. Bond also briefly wears a pair of round translucent brown tortoise shell sunglasses with a keyhole, which have the ability to see through tinted glass). Does anyone know the origin of these sunglasses?
Though Bond is undercover as James St. John Smythe, this is certainly an outfit equally as appropriate for the Bond character.