Emilio Largo: The Ivory Double-Breasted Dinner Jacket


The villain in Thunderball, Emilio Largo (Adolfo Celi), channels Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca in his ivory double-breasted, shawl-collar dinner jacket. Largo wears a ivory dinner jacket to contrast with Bond’s midnight blue dinner suit. The dinner jacket has a clean chest and wide shoulders with roped sleeve heads. It has a 4-button front with 1 to button, 4-button cuffs, jetted pockets and no vents. The buttons are mother of pearl. The black trousers have double forward pleats, suspended by white clip-on braces with brass hardware.

Largo’s dress shirt has a plain white spread collar, double cuffs and a narrow-pleated front. The shirt body is made in a white-on-white cotton. The front closes with two studs. Largo wears two black bow ties: a regular thistle and a narrower thistle with diamond ends. His black calf shoes have elastic gussets on the sides of the instep and either a plain or cap chiselled toe. G. J. Cleverly & Co. are known for making such a style, but Largo’s may have been made elsewhere. The shoes are elegant enough to pass with black tie, but they are versatile enough that the modern man can wear them with jeans.


  1. Clip-on braces…definitely a villain! Strange thing, that 2-stud shirt, I thought 4 was a standard and had never seen anything like that.
    Regards from France

  2. I've seen 1 stud with white tie in some old pictures. With black tie, the standard was traditionally for 3 studs. 4 studs is a recent thing to accommodate low-rise trousers.

  3. And the eyepatch goes well with the tie and a nice contrast to the jacket! More villains please – the Blofelds, Scaramanga's white suit, and (if you get bear such a thing) Emile Locque's unorthodox double breasted suit.

  4. Sorry I left out the eye patch. Adolfo Celi was also in OK Connery, a bond spoof staring Neil Connery. Daniela Bianchi, Bernard Lee, Lois Maxwell and Anthony Dawson were also in it. Perhaps one day I'll write something on Neil Connery's clothes in that film.

  5. Indeed, the eyepatch makes the outfit.

    Adolfo Celi as Emilio Largo is one of my favorite Bond villains. Right from the start, he cuts a stylish figure as we first see him on a Parisian street emerging from his Thunderbird with an overcoat draped over his shoulders in the Italian manner.

    Signor Celi pretty much reprised this same role (even to having a yacht as a base of operations) in the character of Ralph Valmont in Danger: Diabolik in 1968. In between, he played Enzo Ferrari in Grand Prix; certainly a plum role for an Italian actor!

  6. Would love to find an Emilio Largo, Ivory Dinner Jacket, size 44 Long, new or used, or a source where I could have one tailor made.


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