In Octopussy, James Bond dresses for a dinner with Kamal Khan in a black notched lapel dinner suit by Douglas Hayward. One of Kamal Khan’s men fetched it from the closet in Bond’s hotel room, since it was previously seen hanging there between the white dinner jacket and safari jacket. The notched lapel dinner jacket has appeared a few times throughout the Bond series, often in more intimate settings like here. This outfit recalls the notched lapel black dinner suit Sean Connery wears in Goldfinger at a private dinner.
The dinner jacket is a button one, cut with a clean chest and natural shoulders. It has jetted pockets, double vents and three-button cuffs. The buttons are made of black horn. This dinner suit is almost identical to the one worn two years earlier in For Your Eyes Only, with the biggest difference being the lapel width. The lapels in For Your Eyes Only extend two thirds of the way across to the sleeves whilst the lapels in Octopussy have the classic width of being just a bit more than halfway across.
Though we don’t see much of the trousers, they probably have the same wide silk waistband that acts like a built-in cummerbund that the black trousers worn with the ivory dinner jacket earlier in the film have. Moore wears a cream pleat-front dress shirt with a spread collar, double cuffs and regular mother of pearl buttons down the placket, made by Frank Foster. Cream is not a traditional colour for a black tie shirt, but it still plenty of contrast with the black dinner suit and is flattering to Moore’s complexion. The bow-tie is a classic thistle shape in black satin silk to match the lapels.
This suit was sold at Christie’s on 12 December 2001 for £2,820.