Correcting the Fit of Daniel Craig’s Suit in Spectre

42
SHARE

The fit of Daniel Craig’s suits in Spectre saw a slight improvement over the fit of his suits in Skyfall, but they still needed to be corrected in many areas. I’ve had a lot to say over the past four years about the poor fit of Daniel Craig’s suits, and now I’m finally putting my words into something you can see.

I started with a screen capture from Spectre of Daniel Craig in his blue sharkskin suit standing naturally with his arms at his sides. This is how Daniel Craig would have stood when his suits were fitted, and in this pose a suit should look its best. We can’t expect a suit to always look perfect, but the fit of Craig’s suit is far from acceptable. Good tailoring must have clean lines. So I smoothed out the suit’s wrinkles and added fullness wherever a tailor should have. On the left below is how Daniel Craig’s blue suit fit in Spectre, and on the right below is what the suit should fit like:

Spectre-Suit-Corrected-Fit

The corrected suit is slightly larger everywhere, but it is not loose. Now the suit follows and hugs Craig’s body—rather than fights against his body—to make the most of his muscular physique. This is only a change of the suit’s fit, not of the suit’s style since there’s little wrong with the suit’s style. The following are the suit’s problems and the changes were made to the suit jacket:

  • Craig’s shoulders are too narrow and do not allow the sleeves to. I widened shoulders so the top of the sleeve can drape smoothly over Craig’s deltoids.
  • The chest is too tight and is bows open. The hips are also too tight and pull open. I added a lot of fullness to the chest and a little fullness to the waist and hips so the jacket follows the shape of Craig’s body rather than fights against it.
  • The jacket is slightly too short and does not fully cover Craig’s bum as it should, so I lengthened the jacket about half an inch. The jackets in Spectre already do a better job at this than the jackets in Skyfall do.
  • The pitch of sleeves is off and the arms are too narrow, which puts a strain on the sleeves and does not give Bond the full range of motion that he needs. I corrected the sleeve pitch and widened the arms.
  • The left sleeve is too short and does not show shirt cuff, which is necessary to give visual balance to the jacket and protect the ends of the jacket’s sleeves. I shortened the left sleeve a quarter of an inch.

The following are the fit problems with the trousers and the changes that were made:

  • The rise is too short. I lengthened the rise over two inches for a seamless flow from the jacket to the trousers without the unsightly triangle of white shirt that breaks up the body.
  • The thighs are too narrow and do not allow the legs to move without putting unneeded stress on the trousers. I widened the thighs to give the trousers a clean drape.
  • Though the bottom of the trousers is not visible in the shot, the legs need to be lengthen to sit on top of the shoe and not float above the shoe. This would give Daniel Craig the most perceived height.

The end result is something along the lines of the suits Daniel Craig wears in Quantum of Solace. Not only does Craig look more elegant in the corrected suit, but with fullness in the right places he looks better built and more imposing. A too-small suit only makes Craig look diminutive in comparison to how he could look.

See the transformation right before your eyes:

Spectre-Suit-Corrected-Fit-Animated

While I’m fixing Daniel Craig’s suit, I thought I’d fix his shirt as well. His warm complexion looks better in a light blue shirt than it does in a white shirt. The warm tint over Spectre makes the white shirt look a little off-white, which is more flattering to Craig than the pure white that the shirt truly is, but blue is even better on Craig because it brings out his blue eyes. The blue shirt with a blue suit is a classic Bond look from the Connery days. The lower contrast of the outfit with a blue shirt also works better with Craig’s light, low-contrast complexion. A wider collar is also more flattering to Craig’s angular jawline whilst also giving the outfit a more British look. On the right below is how Craig would look in his properly-tailored blue suit with a blue shirt with a wider collar:

Spectre-Suit-Corrected-Fit-Blue-Shirt

This is how I would dress James Bond today. These small changes make a huge difference.

42 COMMENTS

  1. Thank you Matt – fine work as usual!

    I would add another adjustment – his suit’s lapels are a bit too narrow (his tie’s width exceeds the lapels’ width). That creates disharmony, too. And for may taste the suit’s coat could even be still a trifle longer but that’s a question of inidividual taste. I myself prefer the longer-cut jackets in the Savile Row style.

    Best, Renard

    • The lapels are about 2.75″ with the tie at 3″. I don’t think it looks disharmonious, especially when you consider that back in the mid ’90s to early ’00s the style was generally 3.25-3.5″ lapels with 3.75″ ties — like Pierce Brosnan wore in his tenure as Bond. Keep the tie within a half inch and it seems to look good. At least to my eye.

  2. The improvement is obvious, and substantial. Although, I must say that I would have much preferred a navy suit in something other than pick and pick, maybe a herringbone like in Goldfinger? Or even perhaps a navy flannel like Lazenby wore. What are your thoughts Matt? (Keep up the great work, as always!)

  3. Absolutely amazing work! It really shows even more clearly how terrible the Spectre suits are. Your look is just as modern and slim but with one key difference – it fits. This really shows that the costume designer’s desire to make the suits look like they are from 2012/2015 isnt really about getting a contemporary fashionable look but rather is nothing more than a complete lack of insight into men’s tailored clothing.

    • I remember being horrified by the suits in Spectre, especially the one shown above. His trousers were so short! Whoever dressed him should be fired.

    • The sad thing is that I know she does better work than this. Consider that everyone’s suit BESIDES Craig’s seems to fit well in the last two movies. And her work in the Harry Potter films is top notch when it came to the menswear. Not sure why she dropped the ball so hard here.

  4. Finally! Very nice post, matt. You are absolutely right. The cleaner lines make Craig look much better and still modern at the same time with this suit. Also the blue shirt is more flattering for his skin tone. Nevertheless I do prefer the white one with this outfit. The higher contrast of the shirt and the suit is kind of more dramatic in this scene to me. But I think you are right about the collar at all!

    • I’m especially confused as to why the last film featured tab collars so heavily. Tom Ford designs a rather attractive one, but it’s too fussy for James Bond and not very British for a character whose patriotism is a key part of the story.

  5. Could not agree more with this post. I’ve said before that I like the Tom Ford Skyfall/SPECTRE suits in concept, but not execution and this post is a perfect illustration of what I mean. Nicely done, this is more or less how I (attempt, anyway) wear my suits.

  6. You have to figure out a way to get EON to hire you as a consultant for costuming. The poor fitting suits in the past two films (as well as in TLD and LTK) really detract from my overall viewing experience!

    • I agree completely and join the applause for this excellently put together post. I’m sure the producers aren’t exactly unaware of Mr Matt Spaiser so why wouldn’t they pick his brains? Good point about the shirt too!

  7. When put side by side like you’ve done Matt, you can see so clearly how it really should be. The waist especially is very tight. Really show the suits fit in Spectre have all the hallmarks of poor fit. I wear close fitting suits, but my jackets don’t wrinkle and crease at all like Craig’s do. It isn’t that hard to get a close fitting suit that fits properly.

    • You say the most fullness was added to the chest, rather than the waist? I guess it always seems like the pulling at the button is caused by a too small waist, but would it seemingly still pull regardless of how much the waist was taken out if the chest remained too small?

  8. Thank you for an amazing article! I wonder if it would be possible for you to be the next James Bond costume designer! Why not?! Who else in the world dedicated as much time and effort into learning virtually everything about James Bond clothing, and sharing this knowledge with others through professionally and very clearly written and demonstrated articles!
    Also, a question — are you planning on making a series of articles on Ben Wishaw’s outfits? He’s one of the most stylish men in the franchise history! Thank You very much! I learned so much about classic clothing over the last two years or so by following your blog! Good luck!

  9. Great stuff, Matt.
    I’ve said this before but it’s worth repeating. It has to be an intentionally bad fit. It isn’t logical that not one person, over the space of two films – costume designer, director, producers, studio heads, Craig himself or even the tailor making the suits for the designer – noticed the fact that Daniel Craig’s suits didn’t fit him properly and didn’t speak up. It doesn’t make sense. It has to be done on purpose. So weird. It clearly doesn’t bother anyone as Ms Temime was hired twice.
    She talks about the suits being intentionally tight here
    http://www.littleblackdress.co.uk/magazine/favourites/interview-with-jany-temime-skyfall-costume-designer/
    I hope this blog page filters through to someone who has influence at Eon. They need to see it!

    • This is what Temime said: “We decided that for this film his suits needed to be tight-fitting, they needed to show off his body and his ability, but they also they had to be functional.” The suits may have been tight on purpose, but they fail at what they are trying to achieve. The suits do not show off Craig’s body, they are not functional either. The too-tight tailoring does not work to Craig’s advantage. All the suits do is make Craig look fat in some places, too skinny in other places and sloppy overall. I don’t believe that was the intention, even if the suits fit the way they are intended to fit.

  10. Fashion is also a big factor. The tight, skinny fit is very of the moment. But fashion is starting to go away from the overly tight look; so the next Bond film I don’t think will feature as tight suits and clothes.

  11. Good article – completely agree about the fit of the suits in Skyfall and Spectre. I’m not convinced about Jany Temime’s comment regarding functionality. I’m pretty sure in the fight scenes on the train in Spectre, the white tux has pleats behind the shoulders – a bi-swing back? – that aren’t apparent in the non-fight scenes. In other words, they had to make two versions of the jacket; one for the non-fight scene and another to accommodate the extreme upper body movement in the fight scenes. I appreciate that this is not an uncommon trick in movies but doesn’t it undermine the functionality comment?

    • You are correct! Previous Bond did not need this in their suits to fight. Savile Row tailors allow a small fold of cloth behind the arms to allow arm movement. Temime made a big deal about tailoring the suit at the beginning of Skyfall with longer sleeves for shots on the motorbike. That should not be necessary.

  12. This was a neat blog. It as great to see the visuals concerning what you have been saying about the recent Bond suits. Your insights as to proper fit remind me of that great suit that Cary Grant wore in North by Northwest. Even after all these years the fit of that suit was remarkable. One might even stretch in and say it was the star of that movie. I would also agree that the Bond production people should hire you as a fashion consultant immediately. It would be the best money that they could spend. Thanks again for a superb blog.

  13. I watched Tomorrow Never Dies the other day and it is amazing how my view of Bond changes. Brosnan is just not as strong or seemingly aggressive a Bond. The clothing and physique is such a part of the overall feel of the movies. Again, great work above.

  14. I wonder if you are “cheating’ a bit Matt, and I mean that in the nicest possible way. 🙂

    In the side-by-side comparison your PhotoShopped “wrinkle free Bond” looks way better, but in real life your modified suit would have some wrinkles and the improvement would be less striking.

    But, a great post neverltheless.

  15. A picture speaks a thousand words! Excellent article and photo-comparison. This article ought to be published in Esquire!

  16. As a life- long Bond fan I cannot understand how anyone would put Craig in that outfit, much less someone with a fashion background. The tight fitting jacket looks ill- fitting and like something he picked up at the Goodwill store. A suit this tight doesn’t highlight his physique, It just looks like something from a Sears clearance sale. I find it hard to believe someone didn’t demand a change.

  17. Craig can’t help it that he’s a beast:) But really, his bond is different and is supposed to have a disdain towards wearing a suit. They may have done this on purpose as an extension of character.

    • “Now, I’d have normally gone with “only child,” but by the way you ignored the quip … Vesper Lynd: All right… by the cut of your suit, you went to Oxford or wherever. … But you wear it with such disdain, my guess is you didn’t come from money,”

    • Yes, I’m aware of this awful scene. But as I mentioned, this had changed by the end of Casino Royale, when Bond shows by wearing a 3-piece suit that he now appreciates suits. It’s all part of the unrealistic transformation of Bond into the more familiar character throughout Casino Royale.

  18. great job. at frst I was like. ok are we anal retentive. but then i reflected on lines and silohuette and you have good points and he does have more presence. now i understand how a body can fight a suit and the suit should protect the body LOL!!!

  19. Excellent work albeit I hate the suit cloth. Reminds me of male attire for a TOWIE wedding. It dates so fast. When is Craig going to get a proper stylist and tailor?

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here