Casino Royale: Train Travelling in a Subtly Striped Suit

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Navy-Pinstripe-Train-Suit

Let me start out with a quote from Vesper Lynd in this scene:

By the cut of your suit, you went to Oxford or wherever. Naturally you think human beings dress like that. But you wear it with such disdain, my guess is you didn’t come from money, and your school friends never let you forget it.

By this I would assume the filmmakers are trying to pass off Bond’s Brioni suit as a bespoke Savile Row suit, but the cut of Brioni is distinctly Roman and not British. The shoulders are too square and too built up, giving the impression of a new-money-rich executive rather than an old-money, public school educated man.

James Bond also does not wear his suit with disdain. Bond has always had a strong interest in the clothes he wears and does not dress a certain way merely because he thinks he is supposed to. That line in the film suggest he only wears a suit because he thinks that what men are to wear and would rather not wear a suit. The three piece suit in the final scene of Casino Royale shows that he has changed his opinions of suits and now enjoys wearing suits. It would be unusual, however, for a 38-year-old man to change is tastes in clothes so dramatically. Ian Fleming would not have expected Bond’s love for Vesper to change his tastes in clothes, which is something ingrained in one’s ways more typically at half of Bond’s age here. No man in his late 30s would decide only then that he likes wearing suits.

The suit’s cloth is navy with a subtle, closely-spaced grey pinstripe that’s hardly there. This isn’t very British either, as they ordinary prefer their stripes to stand out, or at least appear to be there. The suit has a button three front and four cuff butts with straight, flapped pockets. We see very little else of this suit, but it’s likely that this suit is detailed in the same way as the suit in the following scene, which will be covered at a later date.

That suit has a single vent and darted front trousers with turn-ups, and it wouldn’t be a stretch to assume that this suit has the same. At one point there’s a shot of the trousers beneath the table, and it appears that the trousers have an extended waistband. Bond isn’t wearing a belt with this suit like he does with the grey suit in the following scene. Lindy Hemming always dressed Pierce Brosnan with a belt so I’m sure this suit was meant to be belted too. Someone must have assumed that since Bond is sitting at a table throughout the scene that nobody would see the trousers. Or perhaps someone just forgot. It wouldn’t be the first wardrobe mistake in the Bond series.

Navy-Pinstripe-Train-Suit-2

The shirt from Brioni is a white-on-white twill stripe with a fine blue or grey pinstripe centred on each white stripe. The scale of the shirt’s stripes conflicts with the similar scale of the suit’s stripes; patterns worn together should always be different in size so they don’t compete. The tie has a burgundy ground with a neat pattern of, what appears to be, yellow dots with a white pin-dot in the centre.

20 COMMENTS

  1. For some reason, the Brioni from GoldenEye strikes me as very dated. After that, however, Brosnan's suits still look fairly fresh to me, only his choice of ties sometimes still say late-90s.

  2. Anonymous: The funny thing is that Goldeneye and Casino Royale are my two favourite 007 movies from the '90s onward, yet my least favourite movies for style in the "modern" Bond era.

  3. I've always felt that the suits that Craig wears in Casino Royale look a little off. Reading the analysis here I have come to believe that that was intentional – Bond is fresh from the field (he still has the bulkier physique) and has yet to settle on a personal style. He is buying and wearing what he thinks are appropriate clothes for an agent at his level.

  4. If I understand correctly, the Italian suit was consciously chosen by the film leadership, although they knew that the script – in which Bond's suit is described as Oxford manner and thus of English origin – would be in contradiction to it?

  5. There is no fine line between navy and midnight. Both are very close to black. Considering the context, I called it navy.

  6. Hi there
    I would live to know what kind / brand of suit Vesper is wearing in the train. I am desperatly seeking a nice suit for me but they are all sooo bagy and masculin (although Bond says this too about her suit, i like the cut and style). Thanks for any feedback, U.

  7. Hello Matt, I would really like to have your opinion about two subjects please.
    – I saw a Brioni tie on this ridiculously overpriced “luxury” website, Mr Porter. Here’s the link :
    http://www.mrporter.com/product/360884
    I think it’s really really close to the train tie you described. Possibly a reedition ?
    -and about Brioni suits, do you think their reputation of top quality and longevity is deserved ? Being a student, I am seriously considering buying a pre-used suit on Ebay, that is if I manage to find the right size…

    Thanks in advance.

  8. I’ve always loved the shirt Bond wears in the train scene. Other than your very detailed description above, have you ever been able to track down who made the shirt?

  9. Why do you say this suit is navy? It seems too dark and aggressive to be navy. On the pictures it looks more like a deep charcoal; I think it might actually even be black. Since you said that Bond avoids black suits most of the time, I have the feeling it is a deep charcoal. When looking at the picture of the suit, it doesn’t have the vibrancy of a navy suit, even if it is the darkest shade of navy possible.

  10. I always assumed vesper was wrong here, she’s not a field agent, not a “spy”, and she hasn’t got Bond all figured out. Bond’s friends teasing him for not coming from money giving him a chip on his shoulder? It would be people seeing Bond and what he gets/gets away with that would get chips on shoulders (like Vesper herself, hence her need to project all this weird psycho-analysis on Bond).

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