The last time James Bond wore a striped three-piece suit was in the final scene of Casino Royale. The choice to put Bond in a three-piece suit at the end of Casino Royale was made to show the final transformation of a rough novice to the more familiar sophisticated OO7. Bond no longer has a disdain for fine suits but is now wearing a suit because he wants to wear one. He has no obligation to wear a suit, let alone a three-piece suit, in the Italian countryside.
This Brioni suit is navy with a subtle light grey track stripe in a lightweight worsted wool. The name “track stripe” is commonly used to describe a double-pinstripe, when the pinstripes are paired a yarn’s width apart. Stripes on a suit usually mean business, and though Bond is not in a business environment in this scene he means business when capturing Mr White.
However, is a dark business suit the right choice of clothing for James Bond in this scene on Lake Como? A striped navy three-piece suit is what Bond would ordinarily wear in London, as we see in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Moonraker, For Your Eyes Only and The Living Daylights (Diamonds Are Forever would be an exception). Dark, striped three-piece suits are most associated with boardrooms and banks. A sporty checked three-piece suit, on the other hand, would have been a better choice for this scene. A copy of Sean Connery’s grey glen check three-piece suit from Goldfinger would have be an inspired choice for this scene, and a light-coloured checked cloth would fit in better with the sunny, country setting of Lake Como.
The Brioni suit jacket has a button three front, four-button cuffs, and flapped pockets. We don’t get a good look at the rear but we see enough to tell that it’s vented, though it’s difficult to discern how many vents. The jacket is cut with straight, padded shoulders with roped sleeve heads and a clean chest.
The trousers have a darted front and turn-ups, and might even have a belt. There appears to be a bit of a bulge under the waistcoat where a belt buckle would be, which is one reason not to wear a belt with a waistcoat. Ideally one should only wear braces with a three-piece suit to keep the trousers neatly in place under the waistcoat. There is no need to be scared to wear braces; they will never be seen because they are always hidden under the waistcoat. The waistcoat isn’t fitted particularly well as you can see large ripples across the chest. A properly-fitted waistcoat should always lay completely flat. The full six-button style is too long for Daniel Craig’s less than 6-foot-tall body. A six-button-five style like what Sean Connery wore in Goldfinger would be a better match for his height.
Whilst I’m critiquing the fit, another problem that stands out is the too-long sleeves. Sleeves should end at the wrist and allow 1/4- to 1/2-inch of shirt cuff. Not only is showing a bit of linen aesthetically pleasing, it also eases the wear on the ends of your sleeve. Fraying shirt cuffs are easier and cheaper to repair or replace than a suit.
Daniel Craig’s Broni shirt is light blue poplin with a tall spread collar and double cuffs. The tie is a honeycomb pattern in blue and white. The shoes are black plain-toe two-eyelet derbys (John Lobb Luffield).
See a comparison of this suit with the navy pinstripe suit in Quantum of Solace.