Most of the time the only black tie rule that Bond typically breaks is forgoing a waist-covering, such as a waistcoat or cummerbund. In Licence to Kill he remembers the cummerbund, but overall the outfit looks like a hire. Whether or not you approve of notch lapels on a dinner jacket, these are atrocious, and the satin on the wide revers accentuates the low 1989 gorge. The low button-stance isn’t nearly as bad as the fact that there are two buttons. A single-breasted dinner jacket should never have more than one button, any more is unacceptable. Only should a double-breasted dinner jacket have more than one button on the front. Though the dinner suit looks like it came from a hire shop, it is actually from the expensive Florentine designer Stefano Ricci and is made in a napped cloth that is possibly a wool and cashmere blend.
The rest of the details are classic: jetted pockets, three-button cuffs and no vents. As for the cut, it is a size too large, the shoulders have too much padding and are too wide, the sleeves are too long and the jacket fits too large through the body. This cut is typical of late 80s fashion and contributes to Licence to Kill being sartorially the worst film of the series.
Bond’s trousers have double reverse pleats and a silk braid down the leg. They are worn with white moire silk braces. Bond’s shirt has a fancy striped bib and a placket front with four onyx studs (the only time Bond wears onyx studs), an undersized spread collar and double cuffs. Bond’s silk barathea bow tie is cut in a narrow batwing shape. Bond’s shoes are black patent slip-ons.