A First Look at Spectre’s Suits

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Daily Mail has given us a good look at what Daniel Craig is wearing in Spectre. For those who want to read about the suit without spoilers, my write-up of this new suit is free of context. There are many more photos posted at imgur (where the photo above is from), but no more photos will follow in this article.

Daniel Craig’s first suit from Spectre that we get to see is a three-piece black herringbone made by Tom Ford. This black has a blue cast, so unlike ordinary blacks it doesn’t look brown or green. It’s likely a mohair blend due to the suit’s strong sheen. It’s made in Ford’s well-known style: a button two jacket with wide peaked lapels and strong, straight shoulders with roped sleeve heads. The shoulders are similar to the Quantum of Solace suits’ shoulders. The dramatic silhouette is inspired by British designer/Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter’s designs that his former tailors Edward SextonRoy Chittleborough and Joe Morgan still make today. I recommend checking out their work at the links above. Though Spectre is the third Bond film to feature Tom Ford’s suits, this is the first time Bond is wearing Ford’s signature style full-on. Craig’s suit jacket is still too tight and too short like the Skyfall suits, but it’s not as short and not quite as tight. Also, the jacket’s larger shoulders combined with a not-as-short length make Craig’s Bond look like the commanding man he should be. This is where Spectre‘s suits have greatly succeeded over Skyfall‘s. The narrow shoulders and shrunken cut of the Skyfall suits manage to make the muscular Daniel Craig look rather wimpy. The Skyfall suits look like they are a full chest size and length too small whereas this suit from Spectre looks only just a little too tight.

The suit jacket has wide pocket flaps with a ticket pocket, a single vent and five-button cuffs with the last button left open. The jacket’s lapels—being both very wide and peaked—make this suit rather flashy for a secret agent. Peaked lapels on a single-breasted jacket were popular in the 1930s and 40s and are popular again now, but they are not a conservative choice. James Bond previously wears peaked lapels on single-breasted suit jackets in Diamonds Are Forever and Casino Royale. The single vent—like in Skyfall—isn’t particularly British for a dressy worsted suit, but there’s technically nothing wrong with it. Sean Connery’s Bond wears single-vented suits fairly often. This is the style of suit jacket Tom Ford favours on himself, so he may have had more personal input this time around. Roger Moore even wears a suit in a very similar style in his film Street People.

The suit’s waistcoat has six buttons with the bottom button left open. Like the jacket, it looks a little too tight, but Craig doesn’t look like he is going to burst the buttons off it like the Hulk. The trousers have a flat front, somewhat low rise, slide-buckle side adjusters, narrow tapered legs—which are, again, just a little too snug—and plain hems. Yes, that’s right, Bond does not wear turn-ups (cuffs) this time. Only once or twice over the past twenty years has Bond worn suit trousers without turn-ups. The trousers have slipped down, revealing the shirt below the waistcoat. Braces would have helped the shirt to not show, and since Bond is wearing a waistcoat they would be completely hidden.

Daniel Craig not only wears Tom Ford’s preferred suit style but also Ford’s preferred shirt collar. Craig’s white shirt has a point collar with eyelets for a collar pin to stick through it. The silver collar pin is the kind with balls on the end that unscrew to slide through the holes in the collar. It’s the cleanest-looking type of collar pin, but it’s the most affected kind of collar pin as well. Ford himself prefers a collar without eyelets and a gold safety pin that sticks through the collar. Nevertheless, any collar pin is too fussy for the literary Bond’s simple tastes, and it’s a step beyond Skyfall’s tab collars. Pierce Brosnan was a big fan of the collar pin in Remington Steele since it was a popular style in the 1980s. One thing this shirt might actually get right is the cuff style. Click on the image at the top to enlarge and you might see a cocktail cuff! James Bond has not worn cocktail cuffs since Moonraker (not counting Never Say Never Again), but unless my eyes are deceiving me, it looks like he is wearing cocktail cuffs again. A win for the cocktail cuff fans! Costume designer Jany Temime deserves credit for this brilliant homage to the early Bond films. For those who aren’t fans of the cocktail cuffs they add yet another level of flashiness to the outfit.

Craig’s tie is a black-on-black pattern and tied in a windsor knot, another uncharacteristic style for Bond, but it certainly wouldn’t be Bond’s first windsor knot. The white pocket square with a black border is stuffed in the pocket, though it’s not stuffed in deep enough. It looks like he’s trying to hard to show it off, whereas just a little of it showing from behind the wide peaked lapels would have been more effective.

The black double-monk ankle boots are the Crockett & Jones Camberley. They have a cap toe and Dainite studded rubber sole. Monk boots are not to be confused with Jodhpur boots; monk boots have the quarters over the vamp whilst jodhpur boots have the vamp over the quaters. Though atypical, the boots are actually very Bond-like, recalling a mix of Sean Connery’s and Pierce Brosnan’s Bonds’ footwear. Connery wears black ankle boots with some of his suits in Goldfinger and Thunderball. Pierce Brosnan wears black monk shoes with some of his suits in The World Is Not Enough. The closest shoes to these previously worn by Bond are Sean Connery’s brown monk boots in Diamonds Are Forever that he wears with his light grey suitcream suit and brown checked sports coat. Boots work well with the narrow suit trousers since narrow trousers cover less and are more likely to show sock with regular shoes. Monk boots also respect the literary Bond, who “abhorred shoe-laces,” as Ian Fleming wrote in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. On the other hand, these monk boots are amongst Bond’s flashiest footwear. They might be even flashier than Roger Moore’s Gucci and Ferragamo horse-bit slip-ons!

Over the suit Daniel Craig wears a black bridge coat-inspired topcoat that has many similarities to the greatcoat he wears in Quantum of Solace. It is made by Tom Ford. The double-breasted coat is knee-length and has eight buttons on the front with four to button. The coat also has an ulster collar, meaning the coat has revers than can fold over button up at the neck. The ulster collar is more practical but less dressy than peaked lapels. The back of the coat has a half belt with buttons. The style of coat recalls James Bond’s military origins. Craig only buttons the coat’s second button from the top, which causes the rather lightweight topcoat to fall out of shape and rumple a bit. On top of that, the coat is a little too tight around the waist. It’s difficult to tell if the fit, the belt’s setting or the way Craig buttons the coat is the main cause of the rumpling. Both with and without the topcoat, Craig wears black perforated leather gloves that have a strap on top of the wrist. They go well with the black topcoat, but without the topcoat they look villainous. Craig wears sunglasses again in Spectre, and they’re made by Tom Ford.

Overall this first clear look of the style in Spectre is very interesting, and costume designer Jany Temime has done a better job with this suit in her second Bond film than she did with any of the suits in Skyfall. Though we see a fit problem again, it’s not as bad as it was in Skyfall. The clothing styles respect James Bond tradition in some areas—like the colours of the clothes, the cocktail cuffs, the boots (in some ways) and the topcoat—and ignore it in others—like the peaked lapels, the boots (in other ways) and the collar pin. The clothes are certainly too flashy for Bond, but at the same time they are very stylish and interesting.

87 COMMENTS

  1. Thanks for the post, great info. I’m not a fan of the suit. It looks black.

    One thing I noticed was the NATO strap on the watch. I haven’t seen that since Connery.

  2. I suppose it’s not a bad look altogether, but surely not very Bond. From the peaked lapels to the windsor knot, almost every detail of the outfit makes it something that I would not personally wear. I dislike the collar pin in particular – it seems like a fashion that has been reemerging over the past few years, I hope that it won’t come back full force due to SPECTRE. In my opinion the boots are also pretty awful.

    The vest must be short, because some of his white shirt is still visible below it.

    The whole outfit looks like something a person who wants to be noticed would wear to a funeral (the suit looks black in the pictures – I hope it shows more as navy in the film).

  3. Ok, this isn’t too bad. It’s is a little chauffeur-like but, out of context, it could be Bond dressing to blend in. It’s obvious the filmmakers have long since ignored the rules laid down by Fleming with regards to the novels storylines and Bond’s clothing (the Windsor knot in Dr.No told us that) so I’m prepared to see Bond’s clothes evolve as real world fashions do and therefore I can cut him some slack. (Ha…tailoring joke). The only thing that makes me cringe here is the idea of a pinned down point collar. In my mind, that has 1990 and Goodfellas written all over it!
    Still, as Matt says, I’d rather he looks like a gangster than like The Incredible Hulk.

  4. Dave, that’s a funeral scene hence black look-a-like is appropriate here. Although to many things here is too flashy for the occasion.

    Matt, I’ve always thoutght that peaked lapels in a suit are acctualy more formal than notched lapels. Their more typical for double-breasted suits or dinner jackets rather than single-breasted suit of course. I think I read that also in Alan Flusser book.

  5. Matt, exquisite analysis as usual.

    I feel this look is rather affected, as you already noted. The bobby pin, the Windsor knot, the double-monk boot: they’re all a bit fussy. For me, classic Bond centres around simple, straightforward elegance. There’s too much flourish here.

    By thew way, the shot of Craig stepping out of the car reminded me of the Thomas Crown Affair (The Steve McQueen version that is, not the Brosnan remake.) Quite elegant.

    I look forward to more shots from the film and more comments from you, of course.

  6. Thanks Matt!

    I agree to your observations: The suit jacket’s too short and the trouser’s rise is far too low which looks particularly unsophisticated if it’s a three-piece-suit. The peaked lapels are simply not appropriate and double vents would have been better.
    I am actually a fan of cocktail cuffs so I appreciate their return. But the collar pin is awful.
    Same can be said about the shoe buckles – makes me even think of rock n’ roll or punk influences. Certainly not right on Bond – event though I like the ankle boots Connery wore in TB. The overcoat’s collar is called a Tautz collar if I am not mistaken. For my taste the coat itself has too many buttons on the front and certainly is too tight (makes a sausage-like look).

    Of course it’s a bit too early for a conclusive judgment. And on the screen things always look different. Hopefully (with regard to certain points).

    Best
    Renard

  7. This is a look that I certainly wouldn’t have expected…

    My first thought when I saw these photos that Bond is either trying to blend in with the locals or that the outfit was in deference to where he was. While I realize that it is not technically an “Italian” style, I think that the general public in 2015 may think that. Some of the more “flashy” details would create that impression for some, such as the double strap monks, collar pin, pocket square, driving gloves…

    It will be interesting to compare this to what Bond wears when he is in London. I’m guessing that his suit(s) for that location will be much more subdued.

  8. Wasn’t a big fan of the suit until I found out it was a funeral scene (very appropriate for that), but I’m curious Matt, do you think that the new look is indicative of a backlash against the overly slim trend like we saw in Skyfall?

  9. Horribly flashy for a funereal outfit. As some other contributors have mentioned, I do hope this is to “fit in” rather than a style we should be expecting for the film as a whole.

    Amazing analysis as always, Matt.

  10. I’m going to go against the grain here because I quite enjoy this look–especially when compared to the terrible Skyfall suits. I have long been an admirer of Tom Ford’s signature cut, and I am happy to see Bond finally wearing it. As Matt points out, the shrink-wrapped little boy look that has predominated Men’s fashion for the past several years does not favor Daniel Craig. Ford’s preferred cut, while still too tight in the waist, atleast has the effect of making Bond look powerful. Same with the wide lapes and full tie.

    As for the flash of the outfit, I am of the opinion that Bond is probably in disguise here. Maybe even as a chauffeur (could those be driving gloves?). I attribute the collar pin to this, given that Bond is clearly not wearing a collar pin with his London suit.

    Overall, there is a certain luxorious elegance here that we haven’t seen since the early Roger Moore years. I welcome it back.

  11. I was always under the impression that boots should never be worn with suits. It lowers the style. Why has Bond opted to wear a suit with boots?

    • Dressy boots like these certainly can be worn with suits. I wrote the reasons for the boots in the article. They work well with narrow trousers because narrow trousers are more likely to show sock since they can’t hemmed as long. Sean Connery’s James Bond has a history of wearing boots with suits, so Daniel Craig wearing boots is very Bond-like. Boots with suits is also a very old-fashioned look, especially with balmoral boots, which are dressier than oxfords. These monk boots are neither breaking any rule nor lowering the style of the outfit.

  12. To me, this is amongst the worst suits, Bond has ever worn. Pin collar with a Windsor knot on a very wide tie, the black, shiny fabric, the very wide peaked lapels on this rather tight jacket, the monk boots, the sunglasses (without any rason, since it’s a dark winters day?), the gloves without coat, the huge ticket pocket – everything not a very decent choice. One or two of these could maybe have made the outfit interesting, but all in all they seem to scream “Here I am” louder than Moores flashiest suits. I also totally disaggree with the above conclusion that this outfit would be a good choice for a funeral – you wear black at a funeral to be dressed decent – but this look isn’t decent – it’s loud as can be.

  13. I generally agree with the negative comments above – flashy, confusion of styles, etc. Not proper for a funeral either. And nowhere near as nice as the Skyfall cloths even though the fit here is somewhat better. Craig is shown in the photos driving the Aston Martin so I don’t think he is trying to look like a limo driver. http://www.mi6-hq.com/sections/articles/bond-24-report-20150221-rome-filming-day3?t=&s=&id=03854

    The most interesting part is the watch which looks to be Craig’s own Rolex 6538 on an imitation NATO strap, which was, with a different strap, Connery’s watch and seen in most of the first 9 films. The days before product placement…. The watch doesn’t look like an Omega, who will not be happy with this. http://rolexblog.blogspot.com/2009/10/modern-james-bond-rolex-mystery-goes.html
    If true, good for Craig for apparently subversively getting one part of the cinematic Bond’s heritage back however briefly onscreen.

  14. I’m curious to see how this fits in with the context of the film. Many of the details here– wide peaked lapels, large pinned collar, and the gloves (when worn without the overcoat) make him look more like a mafia hitman than 007. I wonder if he’s impersonating someone else in this scene.
    I think the greatcoat he wears with this is beautiful, certainly something that would come in handy during this harsh winter!

  15. The wide, peaked lapels and the wide tie are unexpected, after Skyfall’s suits. In fact, I like the clothes. This three-piece suit doesn’t look like it fits poorly, except that the jacket is a little tight, and the waistcoat is short. It’s a refreshing change from the very tight look of Skyfall’s suits. I like narrow and moderate lapels, but this is an example of a nice look for wide lapels. Has James Bond ever worn a tie bar or clip in any of the films? I notice he has a collar pin, here, but would wearing both be inadvisable?

    I should point out that Daniel Craig is also wearing a double-breasted pinstriped navy suit in this photo:
    http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/03205/spectre-bellucci-r_3205132k.jpg

    • The waistcoat is perfect! It’s just that the trousers are falling down a little, a probably that only braces could solve. They really should have used braces since they would never be seen anyway, and they would keep the whole suit looking neater. Bond has never worn a tie bar before. A tie bar with a collar pin is okay since they do separate tasks, but it would be unnecessary with a waistcoat. I find tie bars rather affected.

      The double-breasted suit is Daniel Craig’s personal suit that he has been photographed in before. He won’t be wearing it in the film, especially since it’s not a Tom Ford suit.

    • Thank you for the explanation about the waistcoat. The trousers falling a little, and possibly the rise, would have to do with the shirt showing through. I could understand your opinion on tie bars, but I personally wear them most of the time. I do not own a collar pin, or a shirt that could be worn with one. I didn’t realize that the double-breasted suit was Craig’s personal suit, but I was jumping to assumptions that it would’ve made it’s way into Spectre. What do you think of that particular suit, and have you written an article about it before?

      • I didn’t write an article on it, but I posted about that outfit on the blog’s Facebook page:

        Daniel Craig is wearing a double-breasted navy flannel chalkstripe suit at the Spectre photocall in Rome. It is one of Daniel Craig’s personal suits and does not appear to be a Tom Ford suit. With the suit he is wearing a sky blue shirt with a point collar and double, a navy tie with brown stripes, a navy and white mini-check pocket handkerchief with a navy border and brown suede derby shoes. I hope a double-breasted suit makes it into the film, but this one unfortunately has a few faults. The jacket’s sleeves are too long and the trouser legs are much too tight. The point collar is better than the tab collar in Skyfall, but it’s too narrow for Daniel Craig’s angular jawline. It matches the shirt Daniel Craig wears during the Spectre filming on the Thames.

    • It’s incredible how great he looks in that suit (his own apparently), very British too with the club tie and pinstriped double breasted suit -this is actually a slim fit cut that works, in my humble opinion, even if we don’t see him move in it- and terrible in this overly accessorized, yet again too tight suit.

      They should let him dress as he wishes and have no more costume designer for his Bond films. I mean, he will be the only Bond whose look would have changed with every movie, a first for Bond, and not something I think we should be happy about.

      About the setting, well if it’s for funeral, I agree with every comment, it’s just too much. He looks like a 1940s mob boss, Edward G. Robinson would certainly agree !
      I love wide peak lapels but with such wide flapped pockets and pagoda shoulders, the Tom Ford style is a bit too much for Bond. It’s as flashy as Moore’s Angelo Roma suits. Plus the collar pin and double monkstrap shoes… very showy. The sunglasses ? Come on, Bond looks like a bodygard when he wears sunglasses in the winter.
      I think we are all trying to blind ourselves when some people say that he is wearing this outfit while impersonnating somebody… but I would be happy if this lie became true !
      Unless he is attending a mafia boss funeral, well, I don’t see any other explanation.
      About the greatcoat, well it looks nice, but a navy or charcoal would have had my preference.

      Matt, have you any idea of the maker of Craig’s personal suit in the picture, since you know it’s not from Tom Ford ?

    • With that ridiculous one-and-half breasted jacket it is highly likely to be a Cucineli as that appears to be their stock in trade.

  16. And what is it with that haircut, for heaven’s sake? A feeble thatch at the top and all shorn at the sides! The new young boy look which is absolutely hideous and looks as if the individual has some scalp disease! Why is this all going so wrong from the simple basics?!

    Reverting to the tailoring, I simply don’t understand why Tom Ford has to be the look! He is much too new anyway. If you have to go off Savile Row, surely Ralph Lauren’s cuts are far more suitable and elegant – apparently Valentino himself used to wear them – or else stick to both simple and very elegant Dunhill if you have to come off the peg.

    I ‘m very disappointed and were it not for Monica Bellucci would not even bother going to see Spectre.

    • … because of the clothes and hair? You are overreacting far too much. I still enjoyed Skyfall in spite of its sartorial and tonsorial shortcomings.

  17. Frankly I think this outfit is way too ‘fashion forward’ for 007.
    Bond should be all about understated elegance and less is definitely more when it comes to his clothes choices.
    Of course, not all of Fleming’s choices for Bond’s attire would past muster today but the spirit should be maintained and probably Tom Ford is the wrong choice to do this. In my opinion he is a mass merchandiser, not a tailor and they would have been better advised to go to one of the great bespoke names from Savile Row.
    The true custodian of the ‘Nutter’ aesthetic is the great Joe Morgan at Chittelborough & Morgan and I think he would probably have adapted the look for Craig. In it’s purest form, the ‘Nutter’ look works best on tall and thin people. In my opinion it’s not really a choice for extremely muscular men.
    As for motor cycle boots, tie bar shirts etc.. These are best left to Austin Powers. Ian would be turning in his grave!

    • And how many Savile Row tailors are able to produce the number of clothes needed for modern action movies in such a short amount of time? While cutting their costuming budget down significantly, I might add? None.

  18. Ok, I have just seen the other pictures from the British newspaper…
    It looks like our secret agent is becoming one of the Men in Black.
    Just depressing.

  19. Interesting. “The clothing styles respect James Bond tradition in some areas—like the colours of the clothes, the cocktail cuffs, the boots (in some ways) and the topcoat—and ignore it in others—like the peaked lapels, the boots (in other ways) and the collar pin.” Indeed. But Bond’s style never stayed static and its undulations and fluctuations are what makes his various incarnations so interesting and divisive!

    It’s intriguing to consider that, given the somewhat improved, more classic style of suiting and, in particular, the cocktail cuffs on the shirt, that perhaps the producers do at least vaguely consider the opinions of obsessives like us on this blog! Whatever else you say about them, the “Skyfall” suits were very divisive so, for me, anything that jettisoned them is preferable. Yes, the jacket here could be longer and yes, the trouser rise higher but this is a nod to fashion without it being as hideously extreme as the last time round. If the shirt shows under the waistcoat this is not worthy of Bond but, until this stupid, perfect storm trend of shorter jackets coupled with lower rise trousers passes these hazards will continue. I would also prefer double vents but the single vent’s not the end of the world either. Yes the look is overall, very flashy but that’s ok. I tend to agree with the other commentators that it may not be him ostensibly as Bond and there may be some element of disguise here. Given the location, Italy and mafia, as others have noted, would make some sense. I wouldn’t care for the Windsor knot or the collar at all. The latter is too fussy and far too much so when paired with the cuffs. Cocktail cuffs require a simple pointed or semi spread collar and no further accoutrements on the shirt.

    Given the reappearance of elements of Bond’s wardrobe over the years and that consideration seems to being given to revisiting the classic aspects of Bond’s dress in a modern take, it is interesting to consider whether such former staples as a blazer, ivory dinner jacket or a tan suit might reappear in this outing. Given that upcoming filming locations apparently include Mexico and Morocco it wouldn’t be beyond the bounds of possibility. A tan suit would suit Craig’s complexion very well and a simple navy single breasted blazer would scarcely look too outdated for this ultra fashion conscious Bond!

    If I have any observations from what I see of Craig’s clothes over his 4 movies to date it’s that there is a little too much fluctuation in style. All previous Bonds (barring Dalton) maintained a particular style of suit over a few successive pictures and this seems to me preferable to a Bond whose wardrobe maintains no real continuity from picture to picture.

    • Although I welcome this most recent change in direction, I agree that Daniel Craig’s Bond has yet to establish a consistent style across 4 films. Perhaps what makes this so bewildering is that Tom Ford has produced the tailored clothing in three of these films and Ms. Temime has now been involved with 2 of them. Nevertheless, in SPECTRE, despite the involvement of the same actor, director, costume designer, and clothier, we have a significantly different style yet again.

      I suppose if nothing else, this has given those of us who are fascinated by such things plenty to discuss!

      • I’m usually a fan of consistency, but I’m glad that we don’t have a repeat of Skyfall. The slightly better fit and silhouette this time is enough for me.

    • I mostly agree with the consensus; this outfit represents an improvement over Skyfall, but it is far from ideal. I don’t particularly care for double monk straps or cocktail cuffs, but the biggest offense is the shirt showing under the vest. I also don’t like the black tie/navy suit combination, even though it actually represents a throwback to the literary Bond. The silhouette isn’t bad, though – it certainly makes Craig look more imposing than in Skyfall, and the overall impression is very luxurious. What really doesn’t work is the combination of flashy accessories (collar pin, pocket square) with tough-guy symbolism (dark glasses, black gloves). The confusion reflects the stylistic uncertainty of the costume designer, which, in turn, reflects the overall chaotic state of current men’s fashion.

  20. What rankles me about this suit is that it’s so obviously from Tom Ford. To me the whole point of Bond’s suits are to be beautiful but forgettable. He’s not meant to be interested in fashion, he’s a government employee that has to wear a suit for his job. Wearing a suit so blatantly “Tom Ford style” makes him look like a model or a playboy. I’ll always prefer his QoS suits, flattering and gorgeous but understated and subdued, and well fitting but also modern.

    • Good point. But it has been a problem since at least 1995. Brioni and Tom Ford, like Omega, spend a lot of money, so Bond will look like a model for their most expensive, and often ostentatious, products. At least with Roger Moore, for his pre-1981 fashion forwardness, or Lazenby (who actually was a model) I never got the impression he was simply a model or product pitchman, standing in for an actor.

      The bummer is that Craig is a terrific actor, but this suit is very fussy (which didn’t happen pre-1995) and makes him into a Tom Ford salesman. Maybe it will make more sense in the movie, but it looks affected.

    • Christian, I agree with you but I think that the Brioni suits (and only the suits) Brosnan wore as Bond were perfect in style since they were very understated, and also rather forgettable. (see Matt’s post about a timeless suit with the suits from TWINE as a perfect example) They looked expensive though, but their style was neutral.
      I agree that Craig is a terrific actor that here looks a bit like a Tom Ford representative, thanks to the costume designer… The Tom Ford suits from QOS looked great, both in cut and in style (it didn’t screamed Tom Ford).

      Actually, I still think Craig should have sticked with Brioni, he looked great in his suits and dinner jacket in Casino Royale. Perhaps they could have changed a few things later due to his body type, like having less agressive shoulders, but the overall cut looked great, at least to me !

  21. I like the style presented here much better than Skyfall. Personally, I still prefer the Casino Royale and QOS suits to this, but it’s a step in the right direction from Skyfall’s overly hip, GQ-approved, suits.

    While some will balk at the very Tom Fordian touches (collar pin, wide peak lapels) I think it’s a slightly refreshing throwback to the individual style we saw with Roger Moore. Not all Bonds have to follow the Connery model of ultra-minimalism. This outfit has a touch bit more luxury, but is still rather simple and uses small touches to distinguish itself. I look forward to seeing more.

  22. Thanks, everyone, for your enlightening, amusing comments about this get-up. (May I use the term, “get up?”) I agree with what I think are two areas of broad agreement, that: the outfit is a little much, but also that the suit’s cut offers very welcome relief from the grotesqueries of the Skyfall suits. Here’s hoping that our hero’s wardrobe continues to make steps in the right direction and that the producers succeed in the toughest Bond challenge of them all — making an adventure movie that isn’t cringe-inducing bad.

  23. Honestly the pin collar is probably what bothers me more than anything, it stands out with a windsor knot as just being too much. Even maintaining the windsor knot, if they had just used a spread collar or even a cutaway collar I feel like the whole look would have been much improved. I don’t love the color scheme for the suit either but for a funeral I suppose it’s appropriate.

    That said I find it is much improved from the Skyfall look. Peak lapels on a single breasted suit is my personal preference on almost all of my own suits so I’m pretty fond of that. And double monk strap boots are fine, and they aren’t really visible with the straps and clasps being more around the ankle anyway. I like the lack of turn-ups too, with so much other detail going on I feel it helps to prevent it being any more overwhelming. I wonder if that was the reasoning with the single vent too.

    The suit overall reminds me of the suits Mads Mikkelsen wears as Hannibal, which I love but not necessarily on James Bond. If the whole suit were instead darker grey tones with a navy tie, and without the pin collar I feel it would have been a little more in tune with what people might have wanted.

    It’s hard to say what the context of the suit necessarily will be, but I wouldn’t judge the sartorial level of the rest of the film just by this one suit for sure. It’s nice to see Craig back in a three piece suit at least. And as flashy as some people say the outfit is, I feel like a prototype Aston Martin that looks like a spaceship (which I don’t actually care for) really kind of makes all the rest of that more or less a moot point.

  24. It is important to remember that Bond before has worn clothing not as classic as most would consider. The Diamonds Are Forever pink tie and even some of Roger Moores suits can be considered a little far out there for Bond to wear. I like this look and I think its very elegant, a lot better than the bruiser look the short, tight suits gave Craig in Skyfall. I do agree the tie pin is a bit much but the wide peak lapel I think is quite nice and makes Craig look a bit more masculine considering his smaller frame!

  25. As others have mentioned, I prefer the Brioni suits in style to the current crop of Tom Ford’s (Doesn’t hurt that Brioni signs my checks ;)) Basically I view it this way;

    James Bond drives a car that literally is a limited run and costs hundreds of thousands of dollars. Aston Martin is one of the most expensive brands in existence for cars. He travels first class, stays in the best hotels and presidential suites in those hotels. So why is his wardrobe so…comparatively cheap. I’ll acknowledge Tom Ford isn’t exactly accessible to the common guy ($4000+) for a suit is high, but really that isn’t in the upper echelon of suit prices (Brioni, Kiton, Attolini and so on.) so why be so picky about everything else but your wardrobe? That always irked me a bit about Tom Ford and Bond. Good product but questionable placement when viewed in the big picture.

    The Cut is so so, I agree that Tom Ford isn’t really the best cut for Craig’s body, especially considering we are to believe that he is packing a weapon which would cause additional issues with fit.

    Nice suit, wonder what the sunglasses are. Look like Persol but could very well be a acetate Tom Ford.

    • Hi Shaun and all,

      I want to try to explain why a Bond fan would grouse about a flashy suit, while its secret-agent-wearer checks into a presidential suite. The answer, in two words, is fantasy and tradition. Sean Connery’s Bond established the character as a man who appreciated and bought the best, but not the hippest, loudest or newest. His Bond was understated but impeccable. Yes, he also took the best suites and traveled first-class, and thank goodness for that! Bond nosing around his new suite for bugs, bombs or whatever remains one of the series’ most enjoyable, stock scenes. More to the point, asking for rigid believability from a character who has, both, been to space, and charmed women with names like, “Pussy Galore” and “Dr. Goodhead” is akin to asking him not to save the world single-handedly. It just won’t do, old boy!

    • Hi Walter,

      I understand the concept of fantasy and suspension of belief. What I am saying is why go out of your way to have such luxury items and then just go and get a Tom Ford suit. I know people who ride the bus who own Tom Ford suits, it’s not as unattainable as every other facet of his lifestyle. With the new crop of Bond films taking their cues to be more realistic somewhat, it opens itself up to such a viewpoint. I don’t view Tom Ford as the hippest, or the loudest, or the newest but I also don’t view it as the best.

  26. Le Chiffre,

    I generally agree with y0ur comments as well. Pierce usually wasn’t too fussy in his dress, as this SPECTRE suit strikes me. And I agree that Craig should have stuck with Brioni. The Casino Royale fashions were my preference of his three films so far, though I understand Quantum’s Tom Ford has its fans here.

    I know we have discussed many times on this blog the claim by the Bond producers that a Saville Row (or any other tailor) is unable to make the sheer number of suits necessary for a modern action film, which is why they have used Brioni and now Tom Ford. I thinking this through, I am not sure that makes sense. After all, they could have a proper Saville Row tailor make the suits needed for filming and the film’s costume department make the numerous knock-offs needed for rehearsals, actions scenes, lighting setting, etc. But I continue to return to the free publicity and paid money the producers receive from the likes of Brioni, Omega, Aston Martin, Bollinger, BMW, etc., to offset the large production costs. It makes perfect sense, especially with a struggling MGM back in the ’90s. But the open market product placement without regard to actual value (the cost of an off-the-rack Brioni exceeds what I have seen for a proper bespoke suit from Saville Row), style, or good taste, is starting to get a bit grating. At some point, the product placement is distracting, such as in the nearly perfect scene between Vesper and Bond on the train in Casino Royale that was almost wrecked by the Omega shout-out, and cheapens the actual product which is James Bond.

    • While I agree with you in principle about “the open market product placement without regard to actual value,” in reality the average filmgoer just sees Bond in an expensive suit with a flash watch. Whether that suit is handmade on the Row paired with a Rolex or MTM by Tom Ford with a new Omega matters to only a select few of us. So going with the brand that pays is definitely the best value for the filmmakers.

    • I agree completely, Christian. I think, for precisely the points you make, that the argument about volume of production is a complete red herring. Agree completely too with the observation that Lazenby 1969 and Moore 1977/79 never looked so “fashion forward” that their wardrobe appeared as someone modelling bling tailoring. Ford’s contribution is misplaced and far more inappropriate than Angelo Roma tailoring or Ferragamo accoutrements and brings Bond the farthest distance possible away from his literary origins (although I have never been too concerned with that argument myself). T&A, Foster, Cyril Castle, Doug Hayward and Anthony Sinclair may be/have been the labels of the connoisseur but they remained that of an English dilettante. Ford is on a different plain completely. It amounts to the infiltration of money concerns in to everything, naturally Hollywood. It doesn’t surprise me in the least that this trend materialised in the last 2o years.

  27. When I first saw these photographs from SPECTRE I thought that Daniel Craig was doing a poor impersonation of Harvey Spectre from the T.V. show Suits. Harvey Specter (played by Gabriel Macht) wears the same signature style of Tom Ford, and I hate to say it but Harvey Specter’s suits are tailored better. The fit of Harvey’s suits are much better, and from this picutre it looks like Daniel Craig accidentally put this suit in the washing machine and then the dryer. However, these suits are not as bad as the Skyfall suits those were too tight and the suits took away from Daniel’s muscular stature. The collar pin makes Daniel Craig look like he’s Al Pacino from Godfather Part 3 and is not needed. The Cocktail cuff is nice to see, I wonder if the costume designer went to Anthony Sinclair for those shirts?
    Matt as always, great blog and keep up the great work!

  28. This is not Bond at all.
    Switch from Tom Ford to a British firm (Hackett,for exemple,or Huntsman or gieves and hawkes) would be a wise move.

    • I don’t think that you can judge a suit’s quality only by the price. In case of Brioni or Tom Ford you often only pay for the brand but you don’t get necessarily a superior quality. And indeed you can get a very fine bespoke suit without touching the $ 6,000 mark if you are lucky to know a skilled bespoke tailor who runs his own business and is not associated with one of the big houses. Of course it’s another thing if you only need your suit to show off…

  29. Cocktail cuffs, I suppose, allow the same stiffness on the cuff without the fuss of having to use cufflinks, so adding a collar pin seems in contradiction to this logic.

  30. Well I guess this is the post that everybody has been waiting for. Lots of responses so far. Like the others, I think it’s a mixed bag. I like the pagoda shoulders and the general style of the suit but I think it’s a bit too tight. I can’t seem to find a picture where there aren’t any pulling around the button. I like the boots and the cocktail cuffs but not the collar pin. But IIRC the shooting pictures from London shows him wearing a spread collar shirt so the collar pin may only be for this scene only.
    I think you’ve mentioned Chittleborough & Morgan before, Matt. I really like the suit that they made for Simon Crompton in his A Permanent Style blog. It looks very modern aside from the wide lapels and it fits very well. Who knows, after this movie comes out, wide lapels may make a come back.
    Oh and I really don’t like the new DB10. It’s a shame they’re not going with the DBS which I still think as the most beautiful car ever.

  31. Collar pins and cocktail cuffs do not belong on the same shirt in my opinion. I don’t perticularly like collar pins so I may be biased. I think it’s a mismatch in style. Cocktail cuffs are interesting because you get a clean folded turnback cuff without the jewelry, no fuss. The pin is fussy. It doesn’t fit Bond’s character.

    • No thanks. I was never a fan of the way she dressed Brosnan and she did a pretty lacklustre job with Craig in Casino Royale. I hate Temime, but if you are going to bring someone back, it is Louise Frogley. She has done by far the best job with Craig to date. I don’t even mind the sheen of the mohair suiting she used because the rest of the ensembles were so sober and classic that it added just a slight bit of flair.

  32. As a parting thought, Sam Mendes has gone on record in the past stating that his favorite Bond film is Live and Let Die. Based on what we have seen so far, there is eveidence that SPECTRE’s wardrobe will be influenced by LALD. Something to keep in mind going forward.

    • @FS
      – That’s not good news because the LALD wardrobe was not the most sophisticated one (to say the least). And the film itself – well…

      @Brandon
      – I fully agree. QoS presents one of the best dressed Bonds ever (and the same applies to all other characters). Frogley for sure did a great job. Just compare Bond’s suit in the end of CR and in the beginning of QoS – Frogley and not Hemming is the winner. And also Mr White’s outfit (kidnapped by Bond) in QoS is better chosen than in the finale scene of CR.

    • Actually the Chesterfield overcoat in LALD was excellent, as was the blue/grey suit in the first hotel scene and especially the tan silk blazer in the crocodile farm scene. LALD also had the best “black turtleneck/special ops” outfit of the entire series. Just because the movie came out in the early 70’s doesn’t mean the clothes were not sophisticated.

      • I agree Dan, but it also have two awful leisure suits. Still, those can’t take away from the great clothes that also feature in the film. I don’t know Sam Mendes cares enough about clothes to model Daniel Craig’s clothes after Roger Moore’s.

    • Matt, although your assessment of Mendes is probably correct, I have nevertheless noticed some elements that were prevalent in LALD returning to SPECTRE, such as the dressing gown, the all black tactical outfit, a turtleneck (polo neck), the navy chesterfield , cocktail cuffs and wider lapels on the navy suit. While none of these are in any way replicas of their LALD counterparts, I still find this interesting given Mendes’ stated admiration for that film.

  33. I think everyone should probably calm down and reserve judgment until we find out more about the film. I’m convinced that in the film, Bond will be tasked with infiltrating SPECTRE and this is his way of trying to look like a villain.

  34. Matt,

    I’m starting to notice that anyone wearing Tom Ford suffers from that dreaded collar gap. Even the man himself can be seen with collar gap in a lot of pictures on Google. Is this a pretty known/common issue with the cuts of TF’s suits? Too large a neck measurement perhaps? I’ve heard that the chest of TF suits are pretty built up, but would that cause/contribute to the issue?

    There is a small handful of celebs that I know wear TF that I’ve never seen with collar gap. Justin Timberlake, Henry Cavill (though in any googled image you find of him wearing TF, he clearly needs to have them better tailored), and Eddie Redmayne all don’t seem to suffer from it. Daniel Craig and Gabriel Macht (Harvey Specter) always have considerable collar gap in their TF suits, although I think Daniel’s suits in QOS did not have this problem.

    • There are many layers of canvas in Tom Ford suits, but no aspects of Ford’s designs should contribute to the collar issue. The problem is poor fit combined with posture. If the chest is too tight, which it often is on the people who wear Tom Ford suits, the slightest variation for the position the suit was fitted in can cause the collar to stand away. And when suits are too tight they don’t fall back into place like they should. For a suit to fit properly it needs to hang off the shoulders, which also allows it to fall back into place. A chest or waist that is too tight prevents that.

  35. The funeral scene is a Tom Ford Alexander suit (Fit Z). You can tell the difference between it and the Windsor cut (Fit A) by how narrow the trousers are. Surprisingly it doesn’t include gauntlet cuffs, which are common on the Alexander model.

    The suit from the other scene that has been published is the Falconer (Fit F). I know some stores claimed the Skyfall suits to be an O’Connor model (Fit S, W, and Y), but the O’Connor comes with a ticket pocket, while the Falconer doesn’t, and the trouser rise is much higher on the O’Connor than the Falconer. The lapels are wider on the O’Connor as well. So I’m sticking with Falconer as the day-to-day suit of the Skyfall/Spectre Bond.

    • The O’Connor is the suit in Skyfall, made especially for Skyfall with costume designer Jany Temime. It was usually sold it as a button two instead of a button three like Craig’s suits were. Falconer suits can have ticket pockets too. The lapels on Daniel Craig’s navy windowpane suit look to be the right width for the O’Connor, but unlike the O’Connor jacket (and the Falconer) this new suit jacket has four buttons on the cuffs rather than three. The shoulders are larger than the O’Connor’s. I’m guessing it’s a new model in Spectre.

    • Could you please describe the different fits to me. Which one has a slim more fashion aggressive (European) profile? Fit Z?

  36. I c’ant wait to see the latest James Bond Film. I wonder if in this movie Bond will wear a nato strap on his watch. 🙂 Anyone knows witch Omega will be in the movie ? A planet Ocean maybe.

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