Scaramanga: The White Suit

“He usually wears a white linen suit, black tie, and jewellery, all gold.” Miss Anders described Scaramanga’s dress to Bond after he twisted her arm. Scaramanga’s (Christopher Lee) suit not actually a pure white, but a little off white. The jacket has a button three front, a single vent, three-button cuffs, slanted hip pockets and no breast pocket. The collar is essentially a camp collar, even though it’s a term usually used for shirts. This type of collar was commonly found on leisure suits in the 1970s. Like typical leisure suits, this is also made of polyester, not linen. It is trimmed with mother-of-pearl-effect buttons and a cream satin lining. This jacket was auctioned at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 6 March 2007 and sold for £5,520.

The cream trousers were also sold at Bonhams, two years later on 16 June 2009 and sold for £480. According to the auction these trousers are wool (with a waffle texture), and since they are not the same material as the jacket the outfit is not actually the suit that Andrea Anders describes. The trousers have a narrow leg, darted front, belt loops (with a belt buckle keeper), a hook closure and plain bottoms. The jacket and the trousers were made by costumiers Bermans & Nathans.

Scaramanga’s cream shirt has a moderate spread collar and double cuffs, worn with gold cuff links of course. The left cuff link becomes the trigger for the golden gun. Scaramanga makes no secret of his admiration for James Bond, and he even has an element of Bond’s dress in his own: the black knitted silk tie. It is the tie of the literary Bond, and Roger Moore wears one off of Scaramanga’s James Bond mannequin in the end of the film. Scaramanga completes his outfit with white shoes.

Royal Navy Commander’s Dress Uniform


Sean Connery in You Only Live Twice

The Blue No. 1 dress seen here is the best uniform and worn on ceremonial occasions. Bond wears this officer’s uniform for briefings in You Only Live Twice, The Spy Who Loved Me and Tomorrow Never Dies. The colour of the wool is a true navy, which almost looks black. The jacket is an eight-button double breasted with four to button, and the gilt buttons have a crown and anchor motif. The double-breasted lapels have a buttonhole in each peak. The jacket has jetted pockets, short double vents, and the rank insignia of commander on the sleeve, consisting of three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid.

The style of the trousers can vary, but often they are made with traditional forward pleats. They may have side adjusters, a self-belt, braces or some other method of holding them up. Sean Connery’s uniform trousers in You Only Live Twice are cut with a high waist, double forward pleats and and worn with narrow, dark braces buttoned to the outside of the waistband in front.

Roger Moore with Desmond Llewelyn in The Spy Who Loved Me

Roger Moore with Desmond Llewelyn in The Spy Who Loved Me

Officers’ dress uniforms are typically made by bespoke tailors who specialize in military cuts. A British military cut has strong, padded shoulders (often with roped sleeve heads), a clean chest and a long skirt. Sean Connery and Roger Moore likely did not have their tailors—Anthony Sinclair and Angelo Roma, respectively—make their uniforms because the former did a softer cut and the latter did an Italian cut. It’s possible that costumiers Bermans & Nathans made the uniforms. Bermans & Nathans made other naval wear for Moore in The Spy Who Loved Me.

Both Connery’s and Moore’s uniform coats have an English military cut with a straight shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a clean chest and a suppressed waist. Brioni may have made Brosnan’s uniform, as it has a cut reminiscent of Brioni’s tailoring with a straight shoulders and clean chest, but it’s still a possibility that costumiers Angels & Bermans made it. The Roman cut that Brioni tailor their suits in is derived from the English military cut. Brioni, however, made much fuller cuts for Brosnan in Tomorrow Never Dies, and this uniform has a very close fit.

Pierce Brosnan with Joe Don Baker in Tomorrow Never Dies

Pierce Brosnan with Joe Don Baker in Tomorrow Never Dies

A peaked cap with a white crown accompanies the uniform. Connery’s white shirt has a point collar and double cuffs and Brosnan’s shirt has a spread collar and single cuffs. Moore’s ecru shirt—most likely made by his shirtmaker Frank Foster—has a point collar (with a large amount of tie space) but his jacket sleeves are too long and the shirt cuffs are not seen. They wear solid dark navy ties in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are shined black leather, most likely oxfords.

Poker at The One&Only Ocean Club in Casino Royale

Thanks to the people at, there is a lot of information on this casual outfit that James Bond wears for poker at the One&Only Ocean club in the Bahamas in Casino Royale, particularly the shirt. Here’s where most of the following information comes from:

This shirt has very interesting origins. It was originally a hidden-button-down shirt from the Macy’s house brand Alfani and later altered into a much different style. The collar buttons and hidden tabs were removed so the collar could be worn spread open like a camp collar, and the shirt tails were straightened into a straight hem with short side vents. The reason I would guess for choosing a hidden-button-down shirt as opposed to a shirt with a regular collar is because this kind of collar has a much softer construction and doesn’t have an stiff interlining like a regular collar does. The sleeves have button cuffs and the shirt has a breast pocket.

Though the shirt has been described by costume designer Lindy Hemming as “heavy navy blue”, from the costume card the swatch is certainly black. The fabric is polyester and woven in a twill weave. Polyester was chosen for a soft look, but in reality this would not be a practical choice for the Bahamas because it doesn’t breathe well. A cotton or linen shirt would be far more comfortable in the heat and humidity.

The plain-weave linen trousers are the “Larked” model from Ted Baker. The colour is called “mink”, which can best be described as taupe. They have a flat front, straight-cut legs, a full break and plain hem. The side pockets are slanted and there is one rear jetted pocket on the right. There are belt loops but the belt is missing. Bond’s shoes are black.

Trench Coat and Trilby

In For Your Eyes Only, Bond enters the office carrying a beige cotton trench coat and navy trilby whilst wearing his navy chalkstripe suit. The trench coat has an eight-button double-breasted front, set-in sleeves, shoulder straps and cuff straps. It is lined in a brown, tan and beige check. The trilby has a narrow brim, a pinched crown with a centre dent and a blue grosgrain ribbon.

Emilio Largo: The Ivory Double-Breasted Dinner Jacket

The villain in Thunderball, Emilio Largo (Adolfo Celi), channels Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca in his ivory double-breasted, shawl-collar dinner jacket. Largo wears a ivory dinner jacket to contrast with Bond’s midnight blue dinner suit. The dinner jacket has a clean chest and wide shoulders with roped sleeve heads. It has a 4-button front with 1 to button, 4-button cuffs, jetted pockets and no vents. The buttons are mother of pearl. The black trousers have double forward pleats, suspended by white clip-on braces with brass hardware.

Largo’s dress shirt has a plain white spread collar, double cuffs and a narrow-pleated front. The shirt body is made in a white-on-white cotton. The front closes with two studs. Largo wears two black bow ties: a regular thistle and a narrower thistle with diamond ends. His black calf shoes have elastic gussets on the sides of the instep and either a plain or cap chiselled toe. G. J. Cleverly & Co. are known for making such a style, but Largo’s may have been made elsewhere. The shoes are elegant enough to pass with black tie, but they are versatile enough that the modern man can wear them with jeans.

Crab Key Island Wear: A Polo in Dr. No

For his exploration on Crab Key, Bond wears a light blue cotton pique knit shirt tucked into light blue trousers. The polo shirt has a two-button collar. The trousers sit at the waist and have button-waist-adjusters, an extended waistband that closes with two clasps, and two rear pockets. There are actually two different pairs of trousers worn in these scenes, and they differ in the pockets. One pair has frogmouth pockets and the other has slanted side pockets. The trousers have a visible hem, but Bond often wears them rolled up. Bond’s shoes are dark blue canvas two-eyelet derbies in most of the shots, though in one shot they are slip-ons.

Trousers with frogmouth pockets
Trousers with slanted pockets

The Dark Tan Linen Suit in Die Another Day


Summer is nearing the end, but linen suits still have a little time left before they go out of season. In Die Another Day, Pierce Brosnan wears a casual dark tan linen suit from Brioni, with strong padded shoulders, a clean chest and a longer jacket length. The fabric is probably on the heavier side for linen, so it rumples more than it wrinkles for a casually elegant look. Yet in a plain weave it still breathes well and is comfortable in warm weather. This is one of the few button two suits Brosnan wears in the Bond series. When the 1990s went out, the button three suit was no longer at the height of fashion and the button two grew in popularity again. This suit jacket is detailed with swelled edges, double vents, flapped pockets, and four buttons on the cuffs. The buttons are tan corozo nut.

Tan-Linen-Suit-2The darted front suit trousers have a tapered leg with turn-ups and are worn with a dark brown belt. Brosnan wears the suit jacket open and with an open-collar shirt. The shirt is dark blue with stripes in what may be orange and yellow. The shirt has a camp collar, a plain front and button cuffs. Dark shirts ordinarily don’t pair well with suits, but it works here because this suit is casual and Brosnan does not wear a tie. Ties and dark shirts never pair well together.

Brosnan’s shoes are tan hand-sewn Venetian slip-ons (loafers) with perforated quarters. Venetian silp-ons have an apron toe with a plain vamp. They are made by Stemar in Italy, which is a better choice for Cuba’s hot weather than Brosnan’s usual heavier Church’s shoes. Having a lightweight sole and perforated quarters, they are a breathable and wear very cool. A signed pair of these shoes was sold at Heritage Auctions on the 23rd of August in 2014.


Midnight Dinner Jacket in the Bahamas

Thunderball-Dinner-SuitFor his trip to the Bahamas in Thunderball, Bond brings a shawl-collar midnight blue dinner jacket in mohair with midnight satin silk trimmings and buttons. The trousers have a matching midnight satin stripe down each leg. The jacket has a single-button front, jetted pockets, four-button cuffs and no vents in the back, so it’s a traditional dinner jacket all the way. Now why didn’t Bond wear a white dinner jacket? That was saved for Largo, to make him stand out as the bad guy. Bond wears a white-on-white striped dress shirt with a spread collar, two-button cocktail cuffs and a placket with mother of pearl buttons. The slim, batwing bow tie is made in black satin silk, so there is a slight mismatch with the jacket’s trimmings.
This image shows how blue Bond's dinner suit is in comparison to Vargas' black dinner suit.

This image shows how blue Bond’s dinner suit is in comparison to Vargas’ black dinner suit.

This dinner jacket was sold at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 6 March 2007 for £33,600. If it actually is the same dinner jacket. This piece was not made by Connery’s usual tailor, Anthony Sinclair, but by famous costumer M. Berman, who made many clothes for other actors in the Bond series. This suit is cut a little trimmer than Sinclair’s suits, but it still has the same overall look. According to the listing, the jacket has a burgundy satin lining, and the jacket was altered for use in later productions. One of the alterations included the addition of black silk gauntlet cuffs like Connery wears on his dinner jackets in Dr. No and From Russia With Love. They call it black in the description, but midnight blue is meant to look black under artificial lighting. The uninformed cannot tell them apart. On the other hand, this dinner jacket could actually be black and not be the dinner jacket in the actual dinner jacket from Thunderball.